Flop Control

crashtech

Combo Man
@DATEC , I think I meant to say that we do that after the last coat of base and before clear, just to make sure that it's ready for final topcoat. I think that once it's unmasked and outside, it's not to late to make it right, but it's definitely too late to make it profitable if rework is required.
 

jcclark

Oldtimer
I don't see how you can compare before clearing.
Most times the base doesn't match until I have the clear on it.
 

crashtech

Combo Man
I don't see how you can compare before clearing.
Most times the base doesn't match until I have the clear on it.
Not comparing, examining for application defects like low coverage, mottling, striping, wrong flop, etc. All of these are readily observable before clear. A sprayout panel for checking color match should always be made (with clear) long before going near the vehicle with a spray gun.
 

jcclark

Oldtimer
Not comparing, examining for application defects like low coverage, mottling, striping, wrong flop, etc. All of these are readily observable before clear. A sprayout panel for checking color match should always be made (with clear) long before going near the vehicle with a spray gun.
OK, I understand.
I do the same thing with a strong Mag flashlight,
I go over the painted area before clear with it,
It's not as good as the sun but it does show a lot.
 

elwood

Registered Users
Not comparing, examining for application defects like low coverage, mottling, striping, wrong flop, etc. All of these are readily observable before clear. A sprayout panel for checking color match should always be made (with clear) long before going near the vehicle with a spray gun.
Always do sprayout panel. Has saved me some headaches in the past.
 

John Long

Member
Man, you guys are way over my pay grade. I sure am glad I will never have to match a silver pearl tri-coat paint. Huh uh. No way. Not me.

You guys that can do this are artists in you own right. I admire you but I sure don't envy you.

Me, I'm sticking to my solid colors. Even the wife's car is a solid British Racing Green.

John
 

Chris_Hamilton

Trying to be the best me, I can be
Man, you guys are way over my pay grade. I sure am glad I will never have to match a silver pearl tri-coat paint. Huh uh. No way. Not me.

You guys that can do this are artists in you own right. I admire you but I sure don't envy you.

Me, I'm sticking to my solid colors. Even the wife's car is a solid British Racing Green.

John
John you are being too modest.:) And I'm no artist:) Some of the other guys might be (Jim) but not me. With a good base system though it's usually not an issue. Axalta doesn't get a lot of love here but the best base system I ever used in term of color match and ease of use was Cromax Mosaic. No others even came close. Computer would choose the alternate for me. Once I knew I could trust it it was simply a matter of entering the VIN and code and mixing. Three years of using that system and a whole lot of cars never did I not get a blendable match. Worst I ever used was Omni Plus. (by far)
If you are doing collision repair a base system with excellent OEM color documentation will make you more money than trying to skimp by on base ever will. Should be considered mandatory.
Pearls and most OEM midcoats once you've done a few are easy. Just a matter of using the right technique and doing them regularly. Hardest thing I encountered were the new OEM's 4 stage colors. Mazda Soul Red and Mazda Machine gray. I live in a small area and have done 2 of the red's and 1 machine gray, (3 times lady keeps on hitting things:)) The gray especially was difficult. But like anything you do it enough it gets easier. And hopefully I don't go back to collision repair.:)
 
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Jorge M.

Member
Thanks for that, I've been looking for something like that!!!!
Hate to be that guy but..... I’ve read that some painters swear by it and others swear at it. Some say it throws the color off a bit compared to spraying W&G or rattle can clear.

Me personally I’ve used it and one time I don’t know if I got lazy or stupid but on a Chrysler bumper PXR black I chose the darkest variant and it was way off, like I was embarrassed having to redo that bumper on such an ‘easy’ color. I should experiment more with it, cause it does stay wet for the longest time so it has that going for it.
 

crashtech

Combo Man
I'm probably going to just keep clear coating my sprayouts. I like to save them in notebooks anyway, I must have hundreds now.
 

DATEC

Member
The good thing with this is you can just wipe it off let any haze dry and clear it if you want with no issues what so ever if you keep your cards. Also I have never had in issue with using it changing the color compared to using the real clear. You can always use the real clear if you feel your close with the color but the spray itself is pure clear with no tint to it that I have seen. So for me I would say give it a try and see if it works for you because it does for me, I refer to it as "spit in a can", those that have done this long enough have always wet their thumb and swiped the card to mimic clear, done that for years afraid to say.
 
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