Harder body filler for metal.

chevman

Oldtimer
Kent uses Sal Ammoniac for flux, but I don't know anything about it. I neutralize after tinning, and do a phosphoric acid cleaning after filing the lead.
The way Kent demonstrates it, Sal Ammoniac seems like a better flux than anything I have used.
 

EddieF

Top Banana
my grandfather & i hammered (he did most) on wood copper & brass to make little spoons when i was 10 or so.
practically chewed asbestos, died from broken hip in his mid 90's.
Ammoniac key word of the day?
 

jlcustomz

evil painter
I can tig weld up some edges where needed , but others I'll wimp out & use a little harder filler. A little hard to do perfect complex metalwork at home at night after work without having better tools or workplace or enough consecutive metal work practice.

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Metal 2 Metal is very good stuff for the application, but really, dont just let it sit overnight and get at forming, just let it set up and start working it. The longer you wait the harder it is to deal with.

We used to have a guy come in to patch our lead lined anodize tanks, the tiny little torches he kept in his pocket did such beautiful work. McMaster Carr still sells bar solder for 25 bucks a pound stick, that is still 60/40 so its easy enough to find and try.

Right now we are replacing both the quarter panel and roof panel on a chevelle. Vinyl top and a garage collapse. Get to the between seem from the AMD roof and Goodmark quarter and it looks like a 2" strip of metal welded in would be a better choice, still dont know which way we are going to tackle that. I know the lead stays more flexible, but metal 2 metal is so hard, I cant see it being better than welding the two together as hard as it gets.
 

jlcustomz

evil painter
Still a good amount of straightening work left before filler. 84" quarter panel modifying & widening just ain't easy work.
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Are any of these "metal" fillers semi resistant to gasoline? Which would be best? I know some have had luck with JB but comes in such small tubes.
 

EddieF

Top Banana
The large soap bar block of SA christmas gift wow'd my dad. His dad likely used same thing in 1920's here.
If all my dad & i do is make our soldering gun tips we rarely use better then new, it was worth it.
Thank you
 

Slofut

Active Member
Holy cow! No wonder I couldn't wrap my head around that first pic :D
That's some serious mods there, very cool.
 

jlcustomz

evil painter
Once of my best skills is confusing people.:p.

Too bad I'm not a little further ahead, saw the high listed new years day here in n fla is near record 83 with overnite low of 66, then getting back to cold. Coulda sprayed epoxy at home in am.:(
 

jlcustomz

evil painter
Will need a little harder filler for the edges of this aluminum spoiler also after I tig it together. May just bond it to my existing aluminum cover so I don't warp the F out of it & use some eurosoft I have for the joint area.
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jlcustomz

evil painter
In sanding down a few spots on my aluminum bedcover I made in approx. 2007', I sanded back into the usc all metal I started in spots with. was still nice & intact. I also had used some 3m 8115 directly on some edges to extend slightly in spots & it was still all good after getting bumped, so used a little of it on edges for a starting point in fine tuning them.
I ended up welding the new spoiler top & bottom on, but glued the new bedcover sides in place.
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giggity

Member
so I was recently looking at Duraglas, and someone recommended ALL_METAL(aluminum base filler). Anyone have any experience using either of these, I was going to buy Duraglas to fill in a patch panel area, so I was thinking it could be used for the quarter to roof seam as well.

Also what is best method, sand epoxy down to metal, or scuff and apply? Ive been told by a few people that fillers will adhere to SPI epoxy...still skeptical.:)
 
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