Help selecting epoxy primer for first project?

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chiphead

Hi all, new guy with a project car. I'm doing a frame-on resto on a '54 Bel-Air. This is my first full resto. I'm stripping and doing metal work on the car one section at a time. I need an epoxy to go over the bare metal that's been prepared with Picklex-20 metal prep.

Does SPI make an epoxy primer that's compatible with Picklex? The car will be in epoxy in an enclosed garage as work progresses. So I need an epoxy that can be sprayed and left alone as I work my way around the car. I plan on using some sort of urethane paint system, likely BC/CC.

Thanks, Rob
 
From the 2010 SPI Tech Manual, Epoxy Section:

Acid treatments should not be used unless you know the proper way to neutralize them, again call us first to be safe but we strongly recommend against them.
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Well, the picklex website says it can be primed over without neutralizing, as long as the primer has no acid in it. (no etching primer). I would likely scuff it anyway when I was ready to prime. Which SPI epoxies are acid free?

Man, this picklex stuff works so well I would hate to not use it.

http://picklex20.com/1957611.html

thanks!
 
I'm sorry to say you will likely not find much support for the use of products like Picklex here, even though they may be good and appropriate for certain situations. I would recommend calling Barry at (404) 307-9740 before proceeding.
 
If you insist on using it, find a different paint company to use their epoxy etcc. Not being a smart ass. Im being serious
 
it is nothing more than phosphric acid. any of them will act the same . ospho, naval jelly any of them . it will retard rust forming on the surface until it has soaked up enough humidity to neutralize . why would you want your parts setting around bare ??
 
I have used Picklex 20, it seems different than oshpho and navel jelly. Leaves the metal with a blue grey tint, something is different about it.

I have primered over it with SPI epoxy on test panels, and it seems to adhere fine. I'm not sure I know how to do a scientific test of adhesion, but it seems stuck to me.

On the actual car, just about all the places I had picklexed got replaced anyway, so it won't be much of a factor for me.

Edit: Nowhere have I seen a description of what is actually in Picklex,and whether it actually contains Phosphopric or any type of acid. This page here seems to say it does not?

http://picklex20.com/1142290.html
 
Nothing wrong with using phosphoric acid based products for rust removal IMO but I never had any luck priming over the coating some of them leave behind. A properly etched, washed/neutralized surface is ok(no acid left behind) but I still mechanically sand or blast the surface before primer. I know some have had problems with applying products over picklex-the threads appear regularly.
 
The scary part: 11) How do I take care of the whitish powdery residue if it happens? Scrape off the powdery residue down to the metal without scraping the Picklex® 20 coating at the bottom. Make sure that the coating is dry (if the coating is not dry, there will be a moist feeling by touch).
 
*Never use a rust converter of any kind. NO MATTER WHAT IT IS.
*Never clean metal or paint with lacquer thinner.
*Never use a metal prep UNLESS you are fully aware of how to neutralize properly.
*Never use an acid etch primer, unless you are doing used car work for a dealer or rental car work.
*Never even look at an aerosol can of primer.
*Never Soda blast UNLESS you fully understand how to neutralize it! Call us first so we can make sure you do it the right way.
*Never leave the top off an activator can any longer then it takes to pour it.
*Never store an activator in a refrigerator.
*Never use the by eye or glug method when mixing activators, use a measuring stick or a painters pail.
*Never try and fill an imperfection with a base coat.
*Never try to fill fish-eyes, if fish-eyes start, then stop.
*Never think a faster reducer in base is faster, use correct grade.
*Never wet floor if you live south of Mason Dixon line.
*Never mix more primer then can spray in 20 minutes.
*Then clean gun before mixing more to be safe.
*Before spraying check gun for spraying and adjustments, check air supply for water and air pressure.
*Never use a major’s low end base line, it is not cheaper and the potential for problems outweigh any savings.
 
^^^agreed!!^^ How come there's no MSDS sheets on the Picklex site? Can you drink it?
 
dont know but spi has tech sheets for all their products. unfortunately some people dont bother to read them.
 
shine;20316 said:
*Never use a major’s low end base line, it is not cheaper and the potential for problems outweigh any savings.
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I learned this one recently with Nason base. NEVER AGAIN...................................
 
if it removes rust it is phosphoric acid . they are all the same just different bases to mix it in.
 
chiphead, here is the problem.... after all your time and money is spent do you really want to take a chance that the paint fails down the road and you have to start over? We KNOW that when we start from bare clean metal and follow SPI's recommendations, that we have a very very good chance for a long lasting quality job. Now the more products you use that are not recommended just add to the chance of a failed job. Will it fail? There is no certain way to know. Is it worth the chance? That's your call. But past experience say's there is a much better chance that it will. Especially if you do not know 100% how to neutralize the products you are choosing. Make your choices wisely. You never know until you try. But if it's my money and time on the line I'm not going to chance it.
 
there is no reason to leave parts laying around bare. if shot with epoxy they are protected , you can see where you need to work . one thing i can assure you is that when these jobs fail the blame will fall to barry's product. i've seen first hand the results of playing junior chemist . new fresh paint job, car built and on the road , first good hot sunny in the sun and you start finding bubbles. now you have a car that is built, will need to be stripped down again and redone. this is why a professional painter will not touch a car in primer .
 
shine;20373 said:
there is no reason to leave parts laying around bare. if shot with epoxy they are protected , you can see where you need to work . one thing i can assure you is that when these jobs fail the blame will fall to barry's product. i've seen first hand the results of playing junior chemist . new fresh paint job, car built and on the road , first good hot sunny in the sun and you start finding bubbles. now you have a car that is built, will need to be stripped down again and redone. this is why a professional painter will not touch a car in primer .
Click to expand...

Do you see the catch 22 outlined in this post?
 
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