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Let me make this as clear as I can, It will not work long term under the epoxy (30-90 days after painted)., I have had enough calls to know and don't care what is in it and there is no need for me to test it.
Best advice I can give is use their epoxy if they say it will work, "use their system" but please don't mix with my system.
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""Does SPI make an epoxy primer that's compatible with Picklex? The car will be in epoxy in an enclosed garage as work progresses. So I need an epoxy that can be sprayed and left alone as I work my way around the car. I plan on using some sort of urethane paint system, likely BC/CC. ""
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Best advice I can give is use their epoxy if they say it will work, "use their system" but please don't mix with my system.
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""Does SPI make an epoxy primer that's compatible with Picklex? The car will be in epoxy in an enclosed garage as work progresses. So I need an epoxy that can be sprayed and left alone as I work my way around the car. I plan on using some sort of urethane paint system, likely BC/CC. ""
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Barryk;20384 said:
So you are saying, even if the epoxy sticks to the metal and cures, when it is painted over, it will unstick?
I used Picklex 20 about 10 years ago before I heard of SPI, about 90% of the steel that had been picklexed has been replaced
Fpr the parts that were left, since Picklex says not to rinse, I didn't want to re wet and wipe with water, as I wasn't sure what that would do to their product. I did sand blast all the the areas that had been picklexed before priming.
Further, I epoxied some of the picklexed steel that had been cut off the car, and it seems cured. I tried scoring it with a razor to the steel and pulling off with tape, and it was stuck, then I DA'ed through it to see if I hit anything "gummy", and it wasn't.
I have not however topcoated over the epoxy that is on the picklexed, then sandblasted steel.
As far as falling off? Yes, one hit his with a hose and it started flaking, one kid hit the car with a baseball glove, one women closed the trunk and sat a bag of groceries on it and it bubbles the next morning.
In your case you sandblasted off, yes that will work.
In your case you sandblasted off, yes that will work.
crashtech
Combo Man & Mod
SPI epoxy is designed to be applied over sanded or blasted, properly cleaned steel with no other treatment of any kind. Anything else and you are on your own.
As to the one question I saw in your post above, the answer is probably yes. Now with your Picklex treated metal that was subsequently blasted, we can't know for sure, but you might be OK there, but it's just not possible for anyone to know.
As to the one question I saw in your post above, the answer is probably yes. Now with your Picklex treated metal that was subsequently blasted, we can't know for sure, but you might be OK there, but it's just not possible for anyone to know.
If anyone knows of good ways to test I'd love to hear. I will be sanding my shell down in a lot of spots, i can definitely do testing in a few spots if need be. i really don't want to find out later that the blasting didn't knock down the effect of the acid.
I should have payed closer attention in chemistry class, but being exposed to the air, and the moisture in the air, for years, should have helped?
Beyond the razor test, which I didn't do on the actual car, I do need to do some filler work.. Should I put some on, let it cure a few days then sand it all off to see what happened underneath?
I guess there is no way to check the PH of a piece of steel?
I should have payed closer attention in chemistry class, but being exposed to the air, and the moisture in the air, for years, should have helped?
Beyond the razor test, which I didn't do on the actual car, I do need to do some filler work.. Should I put some on, let it cure a few days then sand it all off to see what happened underneath?
I guess there is no way to check the PH of a piece of steel?
S
Senile Old Fart
Technically speaking steel does not have a pH. The surface may contain an acid or base that when subjected to water the pH of will be readable.jtfx6552;20400 said:
Knowing that you can find out the pH of the surface of your parts .
Get some pH indicator strips, take some distilled water, wet the surface of the steel and work the water around for a few seconds, then subject the test strip to the water. The color of the strip compared to the test kit color bar will give a fairly good pH of what is on the surface of the steel.
jtfx6552;20400 said:
I have not read every post on here so not sure I know what is going on but will say, the razor test is useless and you need paint and sun but here nor there, if you put any body filler over that stuff, you might spot pick some and sand down to bare metal and see if the body filler is gummy at the metal, even though the outer part of the filler is dry.
EDIT:
I have had time to read more of this and if I understand you sandblasted the panel after you applied the treatment, if that is the case you are in great shape.
I have been through this a 100+++++ times either before painting or after an acid related problem shows up and I have always given the proper fix with two options and they have been bullet proof.
Either sandblast.
OR
Treat with Oshpo to neutralize and then make sure the Ospho is neutralized.
I have just been advised that Chiphead the starter of this post was a troll, probably promoting product and has not been back to even check the answers.
Jtfx6552 has concerns and I think he is on the right track.
I'm going to ask Dub to lock this and not delete this as I think this will be good reference for other people looking at products like mentioned.
JTFX6552 even though locked can start a another thread so we can get him through this.
Jtfx6552 has concerns and I think he is on the right track.
I'm going to ask Dub to lock this and not delete this as I think this will be good reference for other people looking at products like mentioned.
JTFX6552 even though locked can start a another thread so we can get him through this.
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