I want to create the "Best Sanding Blocks Ever"

Who did you have do your prototyping? I do a lot of work with plastic injection molding companies at work. The production molds I’ve had made run several hundred grand $$. But we need to be shooting millions of parts from them. Not sure what kind of price you’re getting for yours. I also work with US molders. We stipulate molds must be US-built and no longer consider China made molds though they are a fraction of the price.
 
Lizer said:
Who did you have do your prototyping? I do a lot of work with plastic injection molding companies at work. The production molds I’ve had made run several hundred grand $$. But we need to be shooting millions of parts from them. Not sure what kind of price you’re getting for yours. I also work with US molders. We stipulate molds must be US-built and no longer consider China made molds though they are a fraction of the price.
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I used a company called J-Cad engineering. They are in Ontario, Canada.
 
Finally got the prototype in hand. You can't imagine how exciting and rewarding that was!
Here is a short video showing the prototype and it's features:


I would REALLY value your feedback.
In the video, I ask for input on a few questions.
After you watch the video, if you are willing, I'd love to have you answer the following questions:

  1. What do you think of the overall design? Is this a tool you would like to have?
  2. What about the width? Should I increase it a bit, closer to the standard width of PSA sandpaper?
  3. What lengths of blocks are required for an initial set? Planning 8", 16" and 24". Are 4" and/or 35" required?
  4. Does the flexibility look adequate?
  5. What are your impressions from the logo?
Thanks for all the support and encouragement. It means a lot.

And, I will be producing "The Best Sanding Blocks Ever," with your help!
 
Nice blocks!

I have a set of the AFS blocks, so I have a frame of reference.

1. The flexibility of your block will be different once the polycarbonate is attached, because you are getting some slippage between the block and the poly when you flex that won't occur when assembled.
This is not a bad thing, just pointing out that the final flexibility will be somewhat less.
2. I would change the width to match PSA paper. I personally see no advantage to wrapping around the sides.
3. The rods appear to be just right.
4. The rounded corners on the poly make sense. Are the edges going to be slightly eased or will they be sharp?

All in all looking great. Looking forward to what's next.
 
I think the width should be closer to that of the sand paper.

The ergonomic profile looks like it would fill your hand better if they were a little taller, more akin to the height of a durablock. But with only seeing it and not holding it, it’s hard to know if that’s a correct assessment.

In thinking about the challenge of being constricted to one size, the idea came to me to create a Build-a-block. You create a single length block and put dovetails on the end of them so you can build a longer block as needed. Then the only thing that has to be provided at different lengths are the reinforcing rods which are much easier to customize. Or provide those all at the same length as well and they can thread together with a small boss tapped at one end and a small thread at the other—much like a gun cleaning rod that can be put together at multiple lengths.

25F96572-5CD9-41F7-B951-F6EE59BACFBC.jpeg
 
Thanks for the feedback so far. I'm surprised that having the width be the same as the PSA is important. I thought I had a great idea, making it narrower, but that is the value of showing the design and getting feedback.
I hear you and will change the width.

@Lizer, I like the idea of interlocking "build a block." It would certainly reduce tooling costs. I think it would work for the rubber handle, but the polycarbonate base would also have to interlock and I can see it separating when flexed. Have to play with that idea a bit.
Also, my block is the same height as durablock, theirs is just wider and as noted, I will bump mine out to 2 5/8". It is very comfortable in the hand, I think.
 
64avanti said:
Nice blocks!

1. The flexibility of your block will be different once the polycarbonate is attached, because you are getting some slippage between the block and the poly when you flex that won't occur when assembled.
This is not a bad thing, just pointing out that the final flexibility will be somewhat less.

All in all looking great. Looking forward to what's next.
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Thanks! Totally agree that the flex will have some reduction when the polycarbonate is bonded. I think I will still have enough flex though.
 
Blocks look great! I too would want the blocks the same width as PSA. The sizes are good, I think the 8" may need to be made from a more flexible rubber (lower durometer?) just because the shorter lengths don't seem to flex as much. Your logo looks great, simple and to the point. Just my 2 cents, looking forward to the finished product!
 
Dean Jenkins said:
Thanks for the feedback so far. I'm surprised that having the width be the same as the PSA is important. I thought I had a great idea, making it narrower, but that is the value of showing the design and getting feedback.
I hear you and will change the width.

@Lizer, I like the idea of interlocking "build a block." It would certainly reduce tooling costs. I think it would work for the rubber handle, but the polycarbonate base would also have to interlock and I can see it separating when flexed. Have to play with that idea a bit.
Also, my block is the same height as durablock, theirs is just wider and as noted, I will bump mine out to 2 5/8". It is very comfortable in the hand, I think.
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PSA rolls are expensive so I would want to use every square inch.

I think the building block blocks would kink at the joint rather than uniformly flex over their entire length. Even a little variation would render them unuseable imho.

Don
 
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Dean Jenkins said:
Thanks for the feedback so far. I'm surprised that having the width be the same as the PSA is important. I thought I had a great idea, making it narrower, but that is the value of showing the design and getting feedback.
I hear you and will change the width.

@Lizer, I like the idea of interlocking "build a block." It would certainly reduce tooling costs. I think it would work for the rubber handle, but the polycarbonate base would also have to interlock and I can see it separating when flexed. Have to play with that idea a bit.
Also, my block is the same height as durablock, theirs is just wider and as noted, I will bump mine out to 2 5/8". It is very comfortable in the hand, I think.
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I liked the video presentation, Dean. The blocks are indeed a one of a kind design.

I'm also glad you listened to the boys about keeping the blocks the same width as PSA sand paper.

Sand paper over hanging a block does not work well for sharpening body lines, especially when you tape one side of the body line and block up to it, then place the tape on the other side of the body line and block up to it.

You can't do that with sand paper hanging over the block.

You're a good business man listening to the end users. It's going to help make your product successful.

Now hurry up, lol.....I've been slowing down my progress so I can use your blocks for the Feather Fill G2, and SPI 2K before BC/CC.
 
I'm just spit balling here, but, could you use Velcro to attach the poly to the handle? Then, you can use the expanding handle idea and sell just the poly at the desired lengths. I'm concerned that the Velcro would create soft spots though.
 
Dean, I have a set of the AFS blocks, longest one is 36”. I wouldn’t want to do long panels and doors with anything shorter. Also, the major flaw of the AFS blocks are as follows. The rubber cap at the ends of the rods are intended to keep them in place. The metal base is set in from the ends and the rubber that forms the ends will deform downward from these rubber caps as each rod is pushed in place. Which means the sander has a low area at each rod location pushing down on the PSA paper, digging troughs as you sand. So most I’ve talked to, and myself included, have used a sharp utility knife to shave off the area.
 
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MP&C said:
Dean, I have a set of the AFS blocks, longest one is 36”. I wouldn’t want to do long panels and doors with anything shorter. Also, the major flaw of the AFS blocks are as follows. The rubber cap at the ends of the rods are intended to keep them in place. The metal base is set in from the ends and the rubber that forms the ends will deform downward from these rubber caps as each rod is pushed in place. Which means the sander has a low area at each rod location pushing down on the PSA paper, digging troughs as you sand. So most I’ve talked to, and myself included, have used a sharp utility knife to shave off the area.
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That is really helpful, thanks.
Mine won't have that problem. The holes for the rods are molded in the rubber and are snug. I only have the caps on the rods to make them easier to grip. The caps don't go into the handle at all.

What is the rod diameter for the 36" block?
I'm thinking at that length the 3/16" rod may not be stiff enough.
 
Dean Jenkins said:
That is really helpful, thanks.
Mine won't have that problem. The holes for the rods are molded in the rubber and are snug. I only have the caps on the rods to make them easier to grip. The caps don't go into the handle at all.

What is the rod diameter for the 36" block?
I'm thinking at that length the 3/16" rod may not be stiff enough.
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I believe it came with both 3/16 and 1/4
 
I've asked this before, but how do you control the center of a 36" block? How does the block not sand more in the areas where your hands are and less in the other areas, mainly the center?
 
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