New ole guy checking in with a new project

Z

Zout

Like to start by thanking SPI for this great site and references to learn new tricks.

My forte is Military Trucks and not cars like in my older days. I included a couple pics of the new project taken on for my neighbor who helped me in 100 plus heat sandblasting my M43B1 Ambulance. He owns this 1972 Chevelle Malibu.

My history goes back to the 60's on lace painting Choppers and learning new "systems" thoughout all these years - so thus begins another learning curve - Epoxy 2K primers.

Etching primer will be totally removed at the time I have the passenger side body work done - hood and front fenders are new and yet to be installed or touched - but after reading here - etch is surely coming off and should have read up first - knucklehead me.

Here are a couple pics of the car and also my 1963 M43B1 Ambulance I totally restored with engine rebuild in 87 days.
What is missing from the pics are the two window holes the Civil Defense (if your old you remember these folks) cut entirely though each side of the panel right where the RED CROSS is painted. All work done by myself and some assistance from my glutton for punishment.
Thank you for the site and the great products - not discounting the awesome advise from everyone. PDR_0052.jpg

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Thanks - I appreciate it. I got all the etching primer off it and what a task that was but successful to make an awesome product work better in the long run.
Had the first spray on the smaller areas come out like spackle - like spraying that drywall stuff in a ceiling. Air pressure a solid 50#'s - primer mixed exactly with the measure cup
and I mixed thoroughly in the cup with the hardener = let sit in the heated garage a good 15 minutes before entering the spray gun (Devilbis) with a 1.8 tip.

Got that coat sanded anyhow today and shot the second on it which went well but the fan with the 1.8 would not allow a good 6in band - but we adapted and overcame all odds and its on
and looking good as well. I have a couple areas that needed a little more body work and will finish them up Sunday and get onto getting them into primer as well.

Here is where she is at today. On the rear trunk deck there was a 14 in long horizontal dent - on the passenger side under the rear sweep above the wheel well there was a vertical dent about
11 inches long. Magic stick took care of them.Photo578.jpg

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I would have to get up and walk about 100 yds to my garage right now to look at the cans.
ITs high build Gray - 2k epoxy and they are in Red labeled cans and I believe the lettering is black.
Ratio is 4:1 per the sheet.
 
I was just curious, because as shine points out, SPI does not make a high build 4:1 epoxy. If that is SPI 2K primer, it is high build urethane primer and is not designed to be applied to large bare metal areas.
 
Well - I am dumbfounded as usual. When my vendor was helping me who is in this field of building - he was at the vendor and we discussed over the phone where my project was at and what I had on it and what had to happen
to make it work with their product - he handed the phone over to the personnel so I could dicuss where I was at and here is what I have. SPANK me if I am wrong and misunderstand - but SPI is what I thought I have.

Also - here is where the project is at - at the end of the day today.
I am 60 yrs old and I can take whatever you throw at me - but as I know its learning curve all though life so - not being bashfull and not afraid to show my hand - here is what and where I am at.Photo585.jpg

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I think I hear that little voice in the back of my head ready to SCREAM out loud.
 
I'm sorry to tell you that what you have there is some other brand of 2K primer, most likely a urethane that is not really suitable for large areas of bare metal.
 
Zout;25671 said:
I think I hear that little voice in the back of my head ready to SCREAM out loud.

I've heard it too. I had the same thing happen to me on my first painting project! The guy behind the counter recommended a 2K over bare metal. On my next trip to the paint store (for more 2K), a different person informed me that what I had sprayed was not labeled for direct to metal applications. Needless to say I was a little upset. That's when I decided to educate myself so that would never happen again. The bad news was that it all had to come off, and an epoxy applied first. Look at the bright side - At least you haven't sprayed your color yet!
 
Crashtech - thank you.
I was more ticked thinking my vendor was getting SPI as I asked and got this Matrix System stuff.
Car totally re-sanded down to make it right with no side stepping along the way.
Car shot with their MP900 (this is another side of the horror story that the product was not handed off to me - but still my fault).
Sanded after 24 hrs with 320 - Second coat and resanded once again.
The epoxy high build then shot once again and has three coats on it now - this last one will sit till I get the mechanical stuff done.

But the metal is now protected as it should have been in the beginning and I do not feel less an idiot than before - only sorer arms.
I am in no way endorsing this product here - its what I have.
Here are a couple pics from the last two weeks from H***

I am 60 yrs old - and get an hour and half to two hours per night to work on it - my wife and I take care of my 4 grandsons each night. I only get available on Sat about 4 hrs to work on it and Sun about 7 hrs. I have no OFF switch. I am a fleet manager for a trucking co here and that is answering the dang phone in between as well.

Just hanging in there and trying to do my best as I think a lot of us are.
Thanks again Crashtech for the invite.Photo591.jpg

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i've done a few in matrix . it will work pretty much like ppg . my complaint was it was brittle and prone to chips. plus i had to rebuff . good luck with it .
 
I'm glad you decided to buckle down and redo it with a more appropriate product. I don't know a thing about the Matrix epoxy, but it must be better than their urethane on metal!

Hopefully you will get set up with some SPI before long. This is the "SPI users forum, you know! ;)

They'll offer you free shipping if there isn't someone in your area that sells it! Check out the website for the 800 number, price sheet, and everything else you need to know:

http://southernpolyurethanes.com/
 
Absolutely indeed from what I have read - trust me I have read a lot here of some very talented GURU's of the painting world.

The neighbor is thinking in the realm of a Coblat blue with the high gloss racing stripes (from stencils) with the 2k underneath I read sealer and non sealer is a 50/50 choice and use ?

SPI will be the choice for BC/CC over this and also again - I have read no problem with doing this as HOK is used as well along with other products.
Their facility is not that far from where I am located so I see a trip in the near future to finally get an SPI product on it and work with it.

I have read the bleedover into the white info - how to's on the stripping and using the CC data - I am sure I will update myself here before anything else touches the surface when I get the mechanical done on the ride.
 
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