newbie Mike's thread
- Thread starter Treeslayer
- Start date
MJM
Promoted Users
Absolutely !!!
I have several 1 gallon and quart mixing lids. My local jobber sells the Debos style black in color. My other local jobber sells a different brand that he uses on his mixing bank, they are gray in color.
I use the black mixing lids for black epoxy, and the gray mixing lids for gray epoxy.
When I open a new can of paint, I mix it up with an aluminum paint stick until all the solids are removed from the bottom of the can. After about 15-20 minutes hand mixing, I have the solids pretty much loosened up, enough anyways to install the mixing lid and using my drill on low, mix for another 10 minutes.
During the winter I keep my paints not in use, in a heated room with a consistent temperature of 68 degrees. Every three weeks to a month max, I'll give the paint a spin with the drill for 10-15 minutes.
For me, there are lots of advantages to using these mixing lids such as, accurate pouring, cleaner work station, and ease of mixing.
They even clean up easy by using them on a one gallon can filled with thinner so I can use them again on a new can of paint. I however do not cross mix them for use with another product.
Well, that was a long winded reply. That should last me for at least a month....lol
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Lizer
Mad Scientist
15 minutes? I takes me nearly an hour. No joke.
Be sure to scrape the SIDES too.
Chris_Hamilton
Trying to be the best me, I can be
I did say minimum. Usually takes me more but nowhere near that. If I stir/scrape it constantly with a stick, it's usually around 15-20 minutes.
Lizer
Mad Scientist
The last new can of epoxy I stirred up I swear to God that was half full of solids. It took me forever to mix it.
New cans of 2k are even worse.
JimKueneman
Mopar Nut
+1... these things are a must have.
a mixing lid, with a drill and a zip tie...set it and forget it! Just make sure you prop it up against the wall so the drill just doesn't spin in place.
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Treeslayer
Mike
guys i lost my internet yesterday. the wife just installed an "ethernet" cable..........no one speaks english any more lol. any way it works now.
it will be 24 hours about 2 pm today, can i then not worry about keeping temps over 70? also when can i start filler? man you can see all the dings now.
product went on pretty good overall. i do have one crater with a bit of a slight sag under it. i think i got heavy on a corner overlap. it should sand out i think. also a couple spots with just slight texture. idk if its paint or we didnt get the spot smooth. i do see now we should have hit the spot blasted parts with the DA again.
with the amount of dings, its going to about take two more coats after filler.
am not real happy with this paint gun, i never did like it much. you have to really watch the edges or it will leave dry spray on the them.
it will be 24 hours about 2 pm today, can i then not worry about keeping temps over 70? also when can i start filler? man you can see all the dings now.
product went on pretty good overall. i do have one crater with a bit of a slight sag under it. i think i got heavy on a corner overlap. it should sand out i think. also a couple spots with just slight texture. idk if its paint or we didnt get the spot smooth. i do see now we should have hit the spot blasted parts with the DA again.
with the amount of dings, its going to about take two more coats after filler.
am not real happy with this paint gun, i never did like it much. you have to really watch the edges or it will leave dry spray on the them.
Treeslayer
Mike
also i really need more light. is it even possible to get enough light over 50?
Treeslayer
Mike
oh lizer, i wound up mixing three cups at a time since thats the way the pyrex was marked. yeah, the wife volunteered it lol. that actually worked out well. i forgot the top cup on this gun dont really hold a quart.
Treeslayer
Mike
i "might" play with the idea of a new gun before top coat. i just do not like the starting line. i have read threads before on this, but good lower priced suggestions are welcome.
i never have been able to get this gun to make an even pattern. always light at the edges. causes me to hurry so the edges blend together.
i quickly remembered why i never liked it.
i never have been able to get this gun to make an even pattern. always light at the edges. causes me to hurry so the edges blend together.
i quickly remembered why i never liked it.
Lizer
Mad Scientist
You're good to go for filler today. If you can swing it, I'd recommend just doing a light block sand with 220 to reveal all the dings. You're not trying to level or remove epoxy, just put a consistent scratch in the surface so you can see the contrast with the low spots. It takes several coats of epoxy over filler to cover it up because the filler 'soaks' up the epoxy and you can still see a dry spot, or in some cases, it looks like you never even sprayed epoxy over the filler because it just gets soaked up.
Lizer
Mad Scientist
The Starting Line is a very cheap, low end gun and I don't think you'd want to use it for a top coat.
If if's light at the edges then keep turning in your fan more. Spray your pattern on the wall and look at what the ends of your pattern looks like as it sprays now; they probably are pretty thin and weak. Turn your fan in until the tips of your pattern become more filled out.
Treeslayer
Mike
thanks lizer. oh i can see the dings already. some are really bad. who ever did body work here before about made it worse. i have never gone behind some one else before, but i now know i would rather start with the original dent.
Treeslayer
Mike
i wind up with a small round pattern by the time it fills out. i really dont like this gun. its prolly why i think i dont like hvlp, a better gun would probably change that.
Lizer
Mad Scientist
Some you can see, but when you sand it will expose even more. The other benefit to sanding is it makes the existing dings you can already see even more defined. Otherwise what happens is when you start filling you'll miss some.
Lizer
Mad Scientist
Not liking HVLP because you have a Starting Line is like not liking a C8 Corvette because you're driving a Prius.
Treeslayer
Mike
two more filler questions........i know but search never comes up with what i want.
should i sand at all where the fillers going or is that not needed at this point?
how long after filler can you shoot more epoxy?
should i sand at all where the fillers going or is that not needed at this point?
how long after filler can you shoot more epoxy?
Treeslayer
Mike
to be clear, im asking if sanding is needed for the filler to bite.
Lizer
Mad Scientist
You’re in the 7 day window of epoxy so you don’t need to sand before filler.
If you’ve sanded the filler you can spray it