Newbie with two epoxy questions

Sorry Bob, my fingers didn't type what my brain was thinking, I was thinking about fresh urethanes outside of the recoat window. I thought it was mentioned that if you sand and then wait a couple of weeks there could be more shrinking that would have a smoothing effect on the sand scratches. But like you said when in doubt give it another quick scuff.
 
chevman, I do remember a thread where that was discussed maybe Barry will chime in an clarify. How's that project coming? Make sure to post up some pics during the blocking stages-that's going to be an awesome car when done.
 
That right side door is giving me a little trouble, and I still have a little metal work to do on the hood and tail gate.
 
strum456;15424 said:
Does it work on safety glasses? If so, that would be a really useful tip. Thanks!
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I'm sure it does, i use it on my plastic lens prescription glasses. Clean as could be!
 
HVAC Phil;15547 said:
I'm sure it does, i use it on my plastic lens prescription glasses. Clean as could be!
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This may not be a concern, but acetone can embrittle polycarbonate. SPI waterborne does have some acetone in it, but I don't know if it's enough to cause a problem with uncoated polycarbonate. I was told by an employee of a lens lab that they use denatured alcohol in their cleaning processes, so that is what I use nowadays.
 
When you guys speak about temps are you saying the outside temps have to be above 60? What if you run the heat in the paint booth before shooting and warm the car? What about using LP gas heater? Does that put off bad fumes or whatever that could cause a problem w the Epoxy?
 
everything has to be above 65 or as close as you can get. cold metal or cold product will create problems. i try to paint at 70 and above. my products are stored inside an insulated box inside an insulated shop. they never get below 60.
but then i'm not an engineer so i could be wrong.
 
I think BondoKing cures his paintwork with a bullet heater in the cold months, maybe he'll chime in on this. Anything with open flames though needs to be used after the vapors are out. I've got a kerosene torpedo I bought when the furnace was under repair, haven't used it since, couldn't imagine working with the fumes and noise it puts out-but I bet it would kick up the temps in a booth quickly after the paint has kicked over.
 
The possibility of having problems goes way up if you can't keep heat on the surfaces being coated. A safe heat source and a non-contact thermometer are MUSTS when shooting epoxy in cold temps.

I found a good deal on a Dayton 3VU36 on ebay, and I must say even though it's not really a great quality unit, it was money well spent because it really puts out the heat and does not involve flame or fumes. It has made this winter much easier on us!

http://www.grainger.com/Grainger/DAYTON-Heater-3VU36

You should not use any heater while fumes are present, so heat things up real good, shoot, ventilate, THEN turn the heat back on.

Here's another one for a bit less:

http://www.ebay.com/itm/DAYTON-HEAV...861?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item27c0c96dcd
 
Well, it depends how much it gets used, of course. It seemed to add around $90 in December, but I think I was leaving it on all night nearly every other day.

We figure it costs about 50 cents per hour to run. For me it's been well worth it.
 
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