I spoke to Barry at SPI and he said almost exactly what you said. I start re-sanding to bare metal tomorrow and ordering OSPHO! Thanks.
PICKLEX 20 under epoxy primer??
- Thread starter Skycab
- Start date
Chris_Hamilton
Trying to be the best me, I can be
@Skycab Good luck. Hope it works out well for you. Don't get discouraged, this type of stuff happens. This type of work is not easy, anyone who says it is has never done it. It's easy to make mistakes, takes a lot of time to correct them sometimes, and it never goes how you think it should. Just keep plugging away, trying to do the best that you can and you will have success.
Thanks, it's my dream car so I'll do what I have to do.
Did the scratch test and there is no peeling. I tried scrapping it with a razor blade and can't get any peeling or de-lamination. But then again, it's only been 2 months since I put thew stuff on and epoxied it so time will tell. Barry says to take it back to bare metal, apply OSPHO then epoxy again. Crap!
Atleast it’s still at primer stage my bed was sanded and buffed and done when the issue arrived
MJM
Promoted Users
Yet you bit the bullet and re-worked the bed. As painful as it was, you did the right thing in your mind for a quality outcome for years or decades later. There are plenty of people out there, as well as some who have passed thru this forum to chance, hope, or wish for a suitable outcome. They basically gave up and enjoyed their paint job for that day, not years of decades later.
I commend you for going that extra mile.
Chris_Hamilton
Trying to be the best me, I can be
I would do as Barry says as well. The scratch test I described is just a seat of the pants type thing. Safest thing is to redo. Get yourself a few of the paint stripper discs and it will make stripping go quickly. These are the ones I use and really like. Cheap and they last.
4-1/2" x 7/8" Easy Strip and Clean Disc
4-1/2" x 7/8" Easy Strip and Clean Discs are the perfect product for quickly removing paint, scale or oxidation without harming the work beneath. Made of abrasive filled blue nylon webbing for extra strength and longevity these 4.5 Inch E-Z paint stripper discs easily attach to an angle grinder.
www.empireabrasives.com
Jim C
Oldtimer
crappy deal but your not that far into it and imo its better than rolling the dice and always wondering if something is gonna fail. even if its ok with the picklex, just for peace of mind i would do it. when you apply the ospho be sure you neutralize it and get it rinsed really good. you dont want that zinc coating on there. also the other issue with acid is that acids neutralize bpo hardener in filler so anywhere you have filler on top of metal there will be a micro thin layer of uncured filler touching the metal and it will peel or pop off.
MP&C
Member
“I’ve used PVC for my air lines for over ten years without any problem”
When I hear things like this I’m reminded of those safety signs you see at construction sites. “No accidents in XX days”. You know that the possibility still exists. You hear the “without any problem” with most snake oil products as a form of implied guarantee that any failures won’t occur. They can and will.
If Ranjit won’t guarantee his product in writing (email?) against causing paint failure, covering your material costs and labor, that should be all the answer you need. If it’s not guaranteed, I would remove it.
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Rather than stripping the whole car because their MIGHT be an adhesion problem, is there a test that can be performed in a certain spot or spots? Even if it's destructive and the test takes well adhered paint down to steel, at least you only have a few places to fix rather than the whole car?
Yep. That's exactly what I have/had on the top of the fenders. Thousands of them. The problem with blasting is that the metal is not very thick and all the old Jag guys on the forums say DO NOT blast the metal. SOOOOOO, other than replacing the fenders, which is NOT an option, I have no idea what the best possible solution is. Some say use the product, some say strip it and use OSPHO, some say blast, some say wire wheel, etc, etc. Out of all the choices, I just have to bite the bullet and go with what Barry told me to do. It's a crap load of work and in the end may STILL end up like what happened to you but it's the best option. So I've got half of the car back to metal and will have it all sanded again by the end of the day, will OSPHO it tomorrow and by the end of the week will have it in epoxy primer again. Got nothin' else to do. Sh*t happens.
Chris_Hamilton
Trying to be the best me, I can be
If the metal is 20 gauge (.032-.036) thick still, you would be OK blasting. Use lower pressure (45-60 psi) low amounts of media, and shoot at the panel at a 45% angle.
If you are nervous about that, then Ospho would be another choice. Put it on there let it soak, if you have noticeable black pits, after letting it soak, hit those areas with a wire wheel brush. Then apply more Ospho where you wire wheeled. Once you think you have it check a few spots. If it all looks good, then neutralize it. Re-wet everything with Ospho, keep it wet with Ospho for 10 minutes, then water rinse.
MP&C
Member
My first paint job was a 29 Model A, used safety orange Imron. I did the spraying, the owner did the body work. He had pits that he had treated with Ospho and left it there because (verbatim) "my buddy does it all the time and never had any problem". Within the first year of him attending car shows about every other weekend, the sun had reactivated the acid residue in the pits that now started outgassing because of the chemical reaction. That leads to delamination above the pits in little tiny circles, just as you show above. Needless to say I have little faith in ANYTHING touted as "never had any problem"
Asking if he, or ANYONE who sells a do-it-yourself product over which they have no control over the proper application or preparation, is just ridiculous. I understand what you're saying but I wouldn't expect him to guarantee his product when he has no control over how I use it.