PICKLEX 20 under epoxy primer??

Jim C said:
your rinsing the ospho off of neutralizing like barry recommends correct?
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Oh yeah. Believe me, I followed the directions carefully. Rinsed, scrubbed with red scotch bright, rinsed again, wiped, rinsed and blow dried then stored in heated garage for 2 days, blowed all the crevices with clean dry air and hope for the best.
 
MJM said:
Yet you bit the bullet and re-worked the bed. As painful as it was, you did the right thing in your mind for a quality outcome for years or decades later. There are plenty of people out there, as well as some who have passed thru this forum to chance, hope, or wish for a suitable outcome. They basically gave up and enjoyed their paint job for that day, not years of decades later.

I commend you for going that extra mile.
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believe me i didnt want too made me sick it was the best paint job id ever done on my personal truck, blocked it for months wet sanded the universal from 600 to 3000 it was literally a mirror. only thing i can figure was it had been stripped and repainted at some point and someone put some kind of phosphoric acid treatment on it and didnt neutralize it, because i dont use that stuff on anything. live and learn still have the rest of the truck to strip, one door cab and both fenders and tailgate. once i get setup in my new shop since ive moved
 
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Skycab said:
Oh yeah. Believe me, I followed the directions carefully. Rinsed, scrubbed with red scotch bright, rinsed again, wiped, rinsed and blow dried then stored in heated garage for 2 days, blowed all the crevices with clean dry air and hope for the best.
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rinsed it while the acid was still wet. right?
 
Jim C said:
your rinsing the ospho off of neutralizing like barry recommends correct?
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Now that I've got the car back into epoxy primer, I need some advice before I start skimming the low spots with filler, etc. It's very confusing. Once I put the filler on and sand it, I will certainly hit some bare metal. So I touch up the filler and bare spots with epoxy? But how do I get the low spots good enough without sanding, hitting metal, spraying, sanding, etc, etc? Also, what is the best way to keep the filler from bleeding through the epoxy? I will be applying SPI turbo high build primer then blocking a few times before BC/CC.
 
Skycab said:
Now that I've got the car back into epoxy primer, I need some advice before I start skimming the low spots with filler, etc. It's very confusing. Once I put the filler on and sand it, I will certainly hit some bare metal. So I touch up the filler and bare spots with epoxy? But how do I get the low spots good enough without sanding, hitting metal, spraying, sanding, etc, etc? Also, what is the best way to keep the filler from bleeding through the epoxy? I will be applying SPI turbo high build primer then blocking a few times before BC/CC.
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What I and several others do—spray two coats epoxy, lightly block with 220 to reveal low spots, bump them out best you can, then do your filler work, spray epoxy over any bare spots or filler (I do this and then just spray the entire panel with another coat), then proceed to your high build.

Amy gross dents are ground down to bare metal and worked before epoxy ever goes on—especially if they require a stud welder.
 
Lizer said:
What I and several others do—spray two coats epoxy, lightly block with 220 to reveal low spots, bump them out best you can, then do your filler work, spray epoxy over any bare spots or filler (I do this and then just spray the entire panel with another coat), then proceed to your high build.

Amy gross dents are ground down to bare metal and worked before epoxy ever goes on—especially if they require a stud welder.
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Thanks. The epoxy on the bare metal is gray, the other coats will be black. Very few spots that need maybe a 1/16th filler. I am just concerned about filling, sanding and getting bare spots, touching up with epoxy a few times. The epoxy has sit for 48 hours so I'll do the filler tomorrow. Thanks.
 
Skycab said:
Thanks. The epoxy on the bare metal is gray, the other coats will be black. Very few spots that need maybe a 1/16th filler. I am just concerned about filling, sanding and getting bare spots, touching up with epoxy a few times. The epoxy has sit for 48 hours so I'll do the filler tomorrow. Thanks.
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Skycab said:
Thanks. The epoxy on the bare metal is gray, the other coats will be black. Very few spots that need maybe a 1/16th filler. I am just concerned about filling, sanding and getting bare spots, touching up with epoxy a few times. The epoxy has sit for 48 hours so I'll do the filler tomorrow. Thanks.
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Why are you concerned about that? You only need to touch up with epoxy once. Fill, sand, and once you’re completely done shoot bare spots with epoxy (or preferably the entire thing) and you’re ready for next step.
 
Lizer said:
Why are you concerned about that? You only need to touch up with epoxy once. Fill, sand, and once you’re completely done shoot bare spots with epoxy (or preferably the entire thing) and you’re ready for next step.
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Because I was overthinking it. I get it. Thanks.
 
Skycab said:
Thanks. The epoxy on the bare metal is gray, the other coats will be black. Very few spots that need maybe a 1/16th filler. I am just concerned about filling, sanding and getting bare spots, touching up with epoxy a few times. The epoxy has sit for 48 hours so I'll do the filler tomorrow. Thanks.
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1/16", I would spray 4 coats of epoxy (instead of filler) and block that out with a long block and a light touch, would only need a little glaze after that if anything. I'd also use powder guide coat. That 120 is a gorgeous shape, as are most Jags, it'll be worth your trouble.
 
Slofut said:
1/16", I would spray 4 coats of epoxy (instead of filler) and block that out with a long block and a light touch, would only need a little glaze after that if anything. I'd also use powder guide coat. That 120 is a gorgeous shape, as are most Jags, it'll be worth your trouble.
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I agree and going forward will do that, just going by what I've read on how to skim coat low spots. Quite a learning curve. I have another XK120 DHC. This one is the XK120 OTS which means it's a roadster and the one I always wanted. It's quite a find as it is all original, no rust at all, runs great, and the PO included all new parts, interior, new bumpers, new tires, original complete tool kit, tire pump, jack, spare and the original rear wheel spats which are like new and is a rare find. The door gaps are not perfect but are exactly the way it came from the factory so I am not going to mess with them as they don't look bad and the doors open and close perfectly. Like I said in an earlier post, I'm the 3rd owner and the PO's took really good care of this car. It'll be passed to my grandson. Hopefully he will be able to drive it before all gas cars are outlawed.
 
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