Poly Primer Over Epoxy in Cool Temps

crashtech

Combo Man & Mod
I'm looking to have a discussion about procedures and results when applying poly primer over epoxy in cool temperatures, meaning metal temps around mid-sixties.

I've encountered issues involving too fast of application, and have been in the process of refining the technique to avoid problems.

But I had a problem just lately that will probably result in the stripping and redo of two doors for a '70 GTO, because the epoxy never hardened.

The doors in question had been stripped and epoxied the week previous, and had some filler and some bare metal spots.

The technique used was to apply two medium wet coats of unreduced epoxy on a Friday evening, about 20 minutes apart. Closer together than normal, but I have done this before when the parts will sit awhile with no ill effects. The hardener was the bottom of a gallon that had been in use for a little over a month. I remember clearly mixing it, because it was unusual that the amount of hardener in the can matched almost exactly what I needed in the cup.

Heat was left on during the weekend to provide about 65° metal temp.

Sunday afternoon, about 44 hours later, I came in just to spray 2 coats of G2 polyester primer. This seemed to go fine, with about 10 minute flash time.

Tuesday, about 48 hours later, I began to block the G2 with 100 grit and noticed the epoxy pulling off the metal. After a call to Barry, I put the doors out in the sun during business hours for 2 days. They were exceeding 100° metal temps doing this.

Then I left them alone for 2 weeks. Today, coming back around to block them, I can still see the epoxy pulling off the bare steel, and it can be marred with a fingernail. I'm fairly convinced that it all has to come off now.

I'm curious to know if anyone has experienced anything like this, and what was done to resolve the problem. PM me if you don't want it to be public.
 
Update:

Apparently, the only place where the epoxy is pulling off the metal is where I put a skim of poly putty today along the bottom of the door. So it looks like maybe a partial cure of the epoxy?

The question for me now is if it will ever cure fully, or still needs to come off.
 
as you have seen, it will cure but the more mils of stuff on top the longer for the solvents to come out.

Heat is everything with epoxy and if metal temp was 65, the shop had to be 70-73.
 
I know you are about sick of me and my cold shop, Barry.

I own two infrared thermometers and use them often, I am very careful never to let the metal temps go below 60°, never ever!

I have to wonder at this point if I did make a mistake mixing, or the activator at the end of the gallon was weak, or a combination of several factors.

I really don't want to strip these panels.
 
Nice thing about epoxy, we don't need to worry about the activator until its about three years old or been frozen a few times, it will take a lot of abuse.
 
Please keep us updated Crash. If it happened with poly primer, I bet the same thing could happen with filler, if all conditions are right.
 
I don't think anyone has anything to worry about. It seems that my trouble is what they call an "isolated incident."
 
Crash, it is not a mis-mixing problem, even if you were off 20% it would still be fine if temp was right.

I don't mean to sound like a broken record but with epoxy, when this happens, it is always acid film or metal temp.

flash? Well next time its 75-80 spray 5 coats back to back with no flash it will be fine, a great test.
 
crashtech;8140 said:
I don't think anyone has anything to worry about. It seems that my trouble is what they call an "isolated incident."

Was the Dolphin glaze over bare metal or epoxy? Did you notice the glaze sanding stickier than normal? I've had some issues with inconsistant cures with some glaze coats in the past and I think oftentimes they become unmixed in the containers so the resin to filler material ratio goes out of wack and sometimes doesn't cure right-worst time was when it didn't cure at all. Think about your whole proceedure and if the soft epoxy areas are only over that glaze you might have the problem isolated. I realize the dophin glaze comes in a bag and mixes easily. Is all of the epoxy soft or just over the glazed areas? I've shot 3-4 heavy coats of G2 over one day old epoxy and never had any problems-keep in mind the epoxy still doesn't reach full cure for a week or better. Any metal conditioners used before the epoxy went on? How old was the epoxy activator-date on can?
 
Another thing to watch with the poly primers is temperature, I think it states right on the can not to shoot below 70*. How quick did the poly lock up? Did it cure out really tacky? If the epoxy was curing slow and the poly cured slow there's a good chance the solvents from the poly got sucked into the epoxy and are now trapped and really slowing the epoxy cure time.
 
Bob Hollinshead;8232 said:
Was the Dolphin glaze over bare metal or epoxy? Did you notice the glaze sanding stickier than normal? I've had some issues with inconsistant cures with some glaze coats in the past and I think oftentimes they become unmixed in the containers so the resin to filler material ratio goes out of wack and sometimes doesn't cure right-worst time was when it didn't cure at all. Think about your whole proceedure and if the soft epoxy areas are only over that glaze you might have the problem isolated. I realize the dophin glaze comes in a bag and mixes easily. Is all of the epoxy soft or just over the glazed areas? I've shot 3-4 heavy coats of G2 over one day old epoxy and never had any problems-keep in mind the epoxy still doesn't reach full cure for a week or better. Any metal conditioners used before the epoxy went on? How old was the epoxy activator-date on can?

Thanks for taking an interest in my little problem, Bob. There were some areas of Evercoat E-Z Sand putty over some cured out epoxy. No anomalies at all with that stage, very routine. The parts where I noticed the trouble were where I blocked through the G2 into the epoxy with 100 grit. Where the newer application of epoxy happened to be over bare metal high spots where the aged epoxy had been previously sanded through, blocking was tearing the new epoxy off the metal. No metal conditioners are used. I don't even have them anymore. Not sure about the date, it was the bottom of a month old gallon and I pitched the container that day.

Bob Hollinshead;8233 said:
Another thing to watch with the poly primers is temperature, I think it states right on the can not to shoot below 70*. How quick did the poly lock up? Did it cure out really tacky? If the epoxy was curing slow and the poly cured slow there's a good chance the solvents from the poly got sucked into the epoxy and are now trapped and really slowing the epoxy cure time.

I have read the G2 data sheet on their site, but I admit I have not read the can. The internet data sheet does not prohibit spraying below 70. Surface temps were constantly in the mid sixties, even overnight. I did not hang around to see how fast it cured (it was Sunday) but the next morning it was hard as a rock with none of that tacky surface stuff.

I figure at this point some combination of events has just drastically slowed the cure of the epoxy. I have decided to modify my technique even further (in low temps) by waiting until the epoxy can be sanded without the paper loading before applying poly primer. For some reason I have had repeated problems with this particular combination of products in my shop, and not for lack of fairly careful adherence to procedure.
 
crash, you have LP gas there?
I have an extra infrared heater you should buy, that would solve your problem in the winter for sure. its 100,000 BTU, we have the 150,000 BTU as back-up in the filling section to the heat pumps.
 
I may choose to use even more heat than I am using now, but the heat bill already cuts into my bottom line pretty badly.

This is the time of year when I am supposed to get some relief from heating costs.

I actually do have a lot of heating capability, as I am able to always keep surface temps above 60, even with the booth running when it is below zero outside.

I have never had any trouble using urethane primer on top of the epoxy. I may just stick to that more often when it is cold (most of the time, lol) or just make extra sure the epoxy is good and cured before using the poly from now on.
 
I know what you mean about cold, we set a new record low for 5/26 -highest it got was 42*. Where's all this Global Warming? Makes me want to burn some tires
 
i dont get much southern exposure and my cement garage is 3/4 cut into a hill. this winter i got to see epoxy fish eye nicely on the cold end of the motorcycle fenders i heated... now i have cottonwood snowing cotton all over the street...
 
I'm seeing the exact problem Crashtech just described. I did a lot of filler work on top of the epoxy; waited 3 days; before applying the filler. No problems, until I polyed prime (using U-Pol; which states on the can; not compatible with self etching primers).

But in my case it literally lifted the epoxy where I scratched to bare metal. I've let cure for another week; still soft epoxy underneath.
 
In my case, the epoxy eventually cured. Boy was I glad!

I have decided not to use poly primer anymore, at least not over partially cured epoxy.

You need to keep heat on those panels for a good long while. Put them out into warm sun any chance you get. If you made no mistakes with metal prep or mixing, you will be fine, eventually.
 
i think the amount of epoxy that goes on is the biggest factor here. i just did something the other day, put one coat of epoxy down then an hour later went to polyprimer. next day we were cutting it down no problem with no soft epoxy. on the other hand when 3,4,5 coats goes down i have had it soft for 3-4 days later with nothing on it. i think it just takes forever for the solvents to come out of it when its applied heavy.
 
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