Poly Primer Over Epoxy in Cool Temps

There are a lot of issues here that can effect the epoxy and most of them have been pointed out in some previous posts and all the statements are true.

The first problem is the epoxy is thicker then most standard epoxies out their and like any problem, mils can be a contributing factor along with flash times, temperature, humidity, and right down to the gun and tip size being used.

One thing I will not do, is lower the viscosity of the epoxy as mils are also very important with an epoxy for corrosion protection and adhesion but I have also known as SPI has grown in the Do-It-Yourself and and learning applicators for some time now, that I need to do something and I have been working on solvent blends for the last year, on in off, to see if we can make this more forgiving.

All my testing of recent have shown, I have found an answer, so what I did on the last batch about three weeks ago is did a 50% solvent change of what I really wanted to do and watching that batch, I think we have it. Next batch we started to make of activator Friday and will be finished about Wednesday will have the 100% change and should really make this epoxy even more bullet or child proof.

To sum it up, the evaporation rate is changing less then 1%, so no noticeable change there in the application.
Other change you may notice, is in a first coat wet application, any surface contamination or bad air gun adjustment, should not have as a drastic effect on the smoothness and less likely to see a creator or popping issue. Could still happen but it will really need to be abused.

Also the curing over night is much better, even with four wet coats with no flash time, at 72 degrees constant.

Nothing else changes at all.
 
Thanks Barry, I'm sure there are many techs in colder climates that will be able to appreciate the changes you are making.

What's really funny is I was spraying epoxy on a frame today, and wished it would flash slower, lol! It was taking some time to get around that puppy, and it turned hot here again.

I guess there's just no pleasing some people! ;)
 
Crash on something like the frame you could solve the problem with a few ounces of 885 or 895, so that is an easy fix.

A year ago, I discussed with the guys about having two epoxies and the only change would be is a thinner viscosity for maybe the best term would be unfavorable conditions. We decided, that would make it to complicated and also hurt the quality of the epoxy and it was that time, I started experimenting and getting all the technical help I could acquire.
 
Barryk;12984 said:
I think we have it. Next batch we started to make of activator Friday and will be finished about Wednesday will have the 100% change and should really make this epoxy even more bullet or child proof.
I'm going to order on Wednesday to get the new child proof version. I can't wait to try the universal clear, I just hope its also child proof.
Thanks Barry.
 
LOL, child proof---I do say that a lot on phone.

Make sure you ask for that batch as hope to be done Tuesday but may have a few gallons of the half and half mix left but could run out today.

Something funny, this brings up about four months ago a rather famous builder out west started using our 4100 clear, a few weeks ago the owner calls me and he says my employees love the 4100 but we see you have other clears and should we be trying them? I said not knowing this guy real well, that the 4100 would be the most Child proof for the high end jobs he is doing.

He took it wrong and pointed out real quick, that ALL his guys knew what they were doing and he did not need anything to be child proof.
I need to be more careful on how I say stuff, LOL.
 
Sometimes, if you want to be dealt with honestly, it's best to check your ego at the door.

I don't mind child-proof products. I call it stacking the odds in my favor. Who needs finicky products when so much can go wrong, even when you are careful?
 
We ALL need ALL the help we can get! Dont care what your name is or how many contracts you have with 3m, Mequiars and the likes.
 
Barry, with the number of calls that I have made with problems applying epoxy, I was sure you did that just for me, LOL. You guys all know it, but I have to say he was always patient and helpful, even though the problem wasn't the epoxy.
 
Chev, the calls don't bother me a bit as a matter of fact i take every problem call, as my personal problem and perhaps that is why a simple question will get a book full of answers from me and unless you hang up, you have to listen to me! LOL

My favorite saying is, most problems are caused by something so minor and stupid, that we tend to over look the cause of what is causing the problem, this statement is most true with body shops.
Best example is the calls I get all the time for fish-eye help, the local jobber has since sold him $3000 in new filters, booth and line filters and problem still exist.
Normally, it is solvent pop and in one case it was Kentucky fried chicken, we figured out after he had spent close to $4000. Man that is a lot of chicken!
 
Bob Hollinshead;13034 said:
Fried Chicken-LOL!!!!

Fish-eyes were only happening on Thursdays and every Thursday he bought the shop KFC, it took almost $4000 when the jobber got done with him retrofitting the air system that was only acting up on Thursdays and the new down draft filters that were only acting up on Thursdays also.

Oh all the employees gathered in the paint shop to set around and eat the chicken and the one helper did not wash his hands after wards.

So simple but hard to pin down!
 
I can definately see that happening very very easy, that one helper that didn't wash his hands contaminated everything he touched, vehicles, masking supplies, tools, door handles... ... ...it's like the flu.
 
FWIW,

Within the last 3 weeks, I sprayed the top of my '55 Bel Air with 2 coats of Black epoxy and followed up the next day (with no sanding or scuffing) with 2 coats of Slick Sand poly primer. The ambient temperatures were in the 80s. (This top had at least a dozen dents in it that I had worked out so I knew I needed a high-build.)

While blocking the top, I went thru to the epoxy in several spots. (I used black so I could see where I cut through the poly because I knew I probably would.)

It looked to me like the epoxy was totally cured and there was excellent adhesion between the poly and the epoxy as well.

Anyway, it seems everything works great in the temperatures I had.
 
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