Quick question

D

Dunnburger

Im pretty sure i already know the answer but I'm gonna ask anyway just for peace of mind.

My car will be put in SPI epoxy primer on Thursday this week. I will pick up and plan on getting her in SPI 2K primer on Sunday. There is no need to "scuff" the epoxy right?
I can just clean her off and shoot the 2K can't I?

Thanks
 
You will get a ton of different opinions on this. Kept inside, at room temperature, I would just spray the 2k. In the summer, if the car has seen some sun or hotter temps, I would definitely hit it with some red scotchbrite. When in doubt, scuff it. This sounds like a no scuff to me though.
 
There's a 7 day re-coat recommendation if the epoxy was applied per the tech sheet, after you use the epoxy for awhile you get good at judging the cure, but if you're unsure it takes very little time to rub it down with a red scotchbrite for insurance.
 
Another question

Ive got the car in 2k and am blocking it. Prior to applying second round of 2k should I........ 1. Just clean with wax/grease remover and then tack cloth it prior to spraying
2. Can I wash with soap and water let dry, tack it and spray?

I'm not sure about the soap and water on the 2k?? But it seems the best way to get all the sanding dust off

Thanks
 
How well it needs to be cleaned is dependent on how contaminated it got during the sanding, body oils, finger prints, etc... all need to come off before priming. You could do a dawn dishsoap wash but make sure to rinse it well, I'd still give it a cleaning with waterborne wax and grease remover though just to be safe.
 
Blocking almost done, will finish it up tomorrow night. I think for now I will just rinse her off with some water then after she dries hit it real good with the waterborne wax and grease remover prior to next round of primer (hopefully on thursday). Also got a better gun (i know, don't skimp on the gun) but I thought for the primer I could get by with a cheap gun (Harbor freight $40 gun, seemed to spray "dry" and thats with fluid all the way out and even played with the psi from 25-40, but it just didn't seem to spray the way its supposed to). Got an Iwata from a friend that says it lays down material "really smooth" so Im gonna give that one a go next round.
 
Dunnburger;17878 said:
. . . I thought for the primer I could get by with a cheap gun (Harbor freight $40 gun, seemed to spray "dry" and thats with fluid all the way out and even played with the psi from 25-40, but it just didn't seem to spray the way its supposed to). . .
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Man if I only had a nickel for every time I've heard cheap and Harbor Freight in the same sentence. LOL
 
I bought an extra buffer from Harbor Freight a few weeks ago, Chicago something or other, it lasted 5 minutes. Never again!

Way to smear the name of a fine city, Harbor Freight.

Bastards.
 
crashtech;17898 said:
I bought an extra buffer from Harbor Freight a few weeks ago, Chicago something or other, it lasted 5 minutes. Never again!

Way to smear the name of a fine city, Harbor Freight.

Bastards.
Click to expand...


Let me guess, the reostat for the varriable speed burnt out? Don't forget, HF has a 90 day warranty on everything, so take your reciept with you and return it.
 
Oh, yeah, I returned it the next day. I have no idea what went bad, it just started slowing down and letting the magic smoke out.
 
You know its not good when you buy one of their power tools & it comes with extra brushes, learned my lesson long ago.
 
I bought a spare airsaw there awhile back, took it apart and corrected some assembly mishaps from the factory, seems to work OK now but I'm glad my 14year old Bluepoint hasn't failed.
 
Ok, after the first blocking (220 grit) I've since re-primed two more coats with the iwata gun (much better gun than the harbor freight gun, lesson learned). I am about half way done blocking with 320 dry and it's coming out pretty darn good, not too many high and low spots but there is a few. I was hoping to not have to re-prime after the second blocking but have realized now that I'm in this stage this is when I could make it or break it. I want this baby to look damn good when I'm done. I'm thinking after this blocking either spot prime the "trouble spots" or hit it with two more coats. Here's the question, if I re-shoot all over should I then wet sand for the final blocking or stay dry? Also what grit should I go to either wet or dry for the final, or do I stick with 320? The two pics are after first blocking and after second blocking of the drivers side, looking better i think, click on em for a larger view
[URL=http://s597.photobucket.com/albums/tt57/Dunnburger/65%20GTO/?action=view&current=IMG_0503-1.jpg][/URL]

[URL=http://s597.photobucket.com/albums/tt57/Dunnburger/65%20GTO/?action=view&current=IMG_0524.jpg][/URL]
 
Dunnburger;17878 said:
Also got a better gun (i know, don't skimp on the gun) but I thought for the primer I could get by with a cheap gun (Harbor freight $40 gun, seemed to spray "dry" and thats with fluid all the way out and even played with the psi from 25-40, but it just didn't seem to spray the way its supposed to). Got an Iwata from a friend that says it lays down material "really smooth" so Im gonna give that one a go next round.
Click to expand...

Ok, so Dunnburger, now that you have used the Iwata and like it better than the HB gun (I have a set of HB's too), which model did you get and how much $$$ was it? I'm in the process of restoring my truck, and am teaching myself body-work and painting. I'm still in the priming and sanding stage, and have plenty more work to do before paint. It almost seems that I can paint better with a spray can than with this HB gun (I'm not spraying the truck with any spray cans). Just curious, and that's a nice '65 GTO you've got there..
 
There are many sand-throughs, based on that I would go with at least 2 coats overall.

Wet or dry sanding is a personal preference. Sometimes we do both, for example, on a job like yours we might dry block with 320 to remove the texture from the primer, then guide coat again and sand with 600 wet to refine the scratches.
 
Some small cut throughs are not a big deal if you're going to seal the car with epoxy before paint. Whether to reprime the whole car is dependent on how many areas need more work, if you plan to step down to a finer grit is there enough material on there now? Take some solvent based wax and grease remover or mineral spirits and wipe/wet down each panel so you can see how straight they are and if they need more work. I like to use 600 as my final sanding grit for higher end jobs especially if it's a lighter metalic but there's a lot of people that stop at 320dry and it's less of a concern with solid colors.
 
Grubbworm;18073 said:
Ok, so Dunnburger, now that you have used the Iwata and like it better than the HB gun (I have a set of HB's too), which model did you get and how much $$$ was it? I'm in the process of restoring my truck, and am teaching myself body-work and painting. I'm still in the priming and sanding stage, and have plenty more work to do before paint. It almost seems that I can paint better with a spray can than with this HB gun (I'm not spraying the truck with any spray cans). Just curious, and that's a nice '65 GTO you've got there..
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I know what your saying about the HF gun. Yes the Iwata seemed to spray much better/smoother than the HF gun with even coverage. Its one of the lower end Iwata guns i believe (but better than the best HF gun) I borrowed it from a friend, the model is AZ3HV2 with 1.5 tip, it made spraying the car much easier and seem faster as well. For primer seems to work fine but for color or clear I don't know how good it would be. This is also my first time with spraying a whole car from start to finish. Fortunately I have a couple friends that have dabbled in it. For the base/clear I have a friend that used to work at a body shop and he's gonna let me borrow his SATA gun for color/clear when Im ready. Good luck!
 
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