Quick question

crashtech;18074 said:
There are many sand-throughs, based on that I would go with at least 2 coats overall.

Wet or dry sanding is a personal preference. Sometimes we do both, for example, on a job like yours we might dry block with 320 to remove the texture from the primer, then guide coat again and sand with 600 wet to refine the scratches.
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Yep, as I am getting through the passenger side, I'm finding a few more highs/lows. I'm planning on hitting her with 2 more good coats and block again

Bob Hollinshead;18112 said:
Some small cut throughs are not a big deal if you're going to seal the car with epoxy before paint. Whether to reprime the whole car is dependent on how many areas need more work, if you plan to step down to a finer grit is there enough material on there now? Take some solvent based wax and grease remover or mineral spirits and wipe/wet down each panel so you can see how straight they are and if they need more work. I like to use 600 as my final sanding grit for higher end jobs especially if it's a lighter metalic but there's a lot of people that stop at 320dry and it's less of a concern with solid colors.
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Yep, planning on sealing it with white epoxy before the red SPI base. Im finding a few more spots and am planning to re-coat, and sand her with 400 dry and call it good. By then she will be straighter than any car I've ever owned and should look pretty darn good.

Thanks guys
 
Got the final round of 2K on (i hope the final round)

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Looks good in primer! I had a 65 GTO back in 85', I put a 327 Chevy in it and wish I still had it. Nice lines.
 
So glad I decided to go with another round of primer. Got about 2/3 of it blocked today and only a couple or so spots that got close to the epoxy, just barley at that. No low spots to speak of. I think it's gonna turn out pretty good. After I get the blocking done tomorrow will plan to go after the door jams and inside fenders under the hood with color and clear this week and full body color/clear next week.
 
Dunnburger, when you're done with the blocking take a couple of grey scotchbrite pads and stack them together, then give the car a complete rubdown.
 
Bob Hollinshead;18238 said:
Dunnburger, when you're done with the blocking take a couple of grey scotchbrite pads and stack them together, then give the car a complete rubdown.
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Can I do that at anytime or just before applying sealer prior to the color? Ive got the paint both rented for next tuesday. My friend that has painted cars in the past is gonna help me out with his SATA rp digital (pretty sure thats the gun he's got)

Heres some shots after blocking this last time after i washed it off. I think its looking good but I don't really know for sure. What do you think?

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Got some paint/clear on the "hidden" parts, was good practice. I think everything that could go wrong did on my first layer of color, water in the air line, a spot i missed with degreaser and of course fingerprints were there, totally forgot to adjust fluid control on the gun consequently has a few runs. I let that layer dry and hit the problem spots with some sand paper, degreased, tacked off and went again. It seemed to lay down nice along with the clear. The SPI red, wow, what a color, pure red, vibrant and bright!!!!! Love it, i think the whole car is gonna look great in it. Heres a few pics. Full color tomorrow in the booth, wish me luck. Also wanted to say thanks to guys for the advice!!
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She came out really nice!!! Little bit of trash in it but nothing a good cut-n-buff won't take of. A long process but with the help of a good buddy, got her done. It was about 630 pm when the last of the clear went on and fortunately the guy I rented the booth from offered to let her sit in it overnight to set up a bit, otherwise I would've been driving her home with some pretty sticky clear. 100% SPI covered car by a 100% amateur!! Thanks guys for the advice and tips, truly appreciate it. I will probably never question a paint job quote by a professional painter, cause that is ALOT of work from start to finish, from the priming/blocking to the color/clear, I amazed they (you guys) don't charge more!!!
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Looks good, it'll look even better after the cut and buff-this is another step you'll need to learn? She is bright!
 
Thanks guys!!!!!!!
Yep, I am a virgin cut and buffer. We got 3 coats if clear on her and the same guy that helped me paint is going to come over and show me the way. We're thinkin 2000 grit to be safe, meaning less chance for me to sand through it then maybe 3000, then buff. I practiced a little sanding with 2000 tonite on the rear under the trunk were the big "Pontiac" chrome piece goes. I did pretty good I thought.
What compound/brand do you guys recommend for the buffing??

Thanks again!
 
Man it does look good, cops will spot that coming a mile away!

SPI accepts no responsibility for tickets!!!!
 
Thanks! The cut n buff is going pretty good. Got some 3m compound. The guy that helped me paint came over and showed me the speed/ amount to use. We did half of the trunk lid and man does it look good. I will be sure to post some more pics in near future!!
 
Got her sanded with 2000 grit and buffed with some 3M. Came out pretty good!! Thank you SPI and forum users!!

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