re-do with same pot of basecoat questions/suggestions

hi guys,

I sprayed a car the other day, checked it with my light and it looked fine..but when I cleared the car i stumbled too close to the quarter about 4 inches from the door and put a nice run in it that drug the basecoat a little so it needs a re-do. I'm no pro, but usually what I'd do is scuff the quarter and door with 800 or 1000, then use spi intercoat clear over the whole panel for a wet bed, then try to blend some color there, then out a little further possibly into the door. My question is, since it's the same can of basecoat would you chance just spraying the quarter? it's Chromabase solvent in a light metallic green color. I sprayed a car this color before then months later re sprayed the fenders and they matched pretty well, but I'm just looking for your opinions. It's a honda del sol so it's a small car and not super hard to prep, but I don't like the idea of going into the door and throwing more product on it if it's not really worth it. The door looks pretty good from what I saw this morning.
Also, how soon would you sand and paint over euro clear? I'm not in a hurry so i figure the soonest I'd do it would be this coming weekend.

Any advice is greatly appreciated!
 
With the intercoat clear on your blend area, you should be able to tell if the color is going to be a perfect match. Since you just sprayed the car my guess is you will be okay UNLESS you didn't get full coverage and used the sealer color to effect the final look of your paint.
 

Chris_Hamilton

Trying to be the best me, I can be
No need to go into the door if you are using the same batch of base. Sand 1/4 with 800 enough to flatten any texture. I never use a wet bed and would not for that job. It just adds complexity and is not needed. If it's a small spot, I would simply cut back my fluid on my base gun and start shooting light coats. In and out. No hard stop start areas with the base. You could also use the SPI Intercoat or being that you are using a Cromax base use their blender which works extremely well and dilute the base with blender or reduced intercoat 1:1. If it's a particulary strong color you could do a bit more reduction with the blender.
Probably the way I would do it is this, if it's a small area then reduce it 1:1 to start and just start shooting very light coats feathering on and off the trigger as you start and stop. Keep it as tight as possible. Continue until the spot disappears, then clear the panel. Simple and easy.
Yes this weekend if fine to go over the Euro. Plenty of time.

I would add that obviously you want adjust your gun so that the fan is matching the fluid amount. Meaning cut back on the fluid and narrow the fan if it's a small spot. You'll need to also lower pressure some if you do that. Do some tests on masking paper on the wall.

I go into a lot of detail about blending in some of these posts. Might help.

 
Thanks guys. Chris, when I first started painting (learned from youtube at first) i would put the base on too dry and get a mottled effect...so now i'm always cautious of dry spraying base...when I'm applying like your method, how do I know i'm not making dry edges? I worked as an apprentice painter here and there but never did a lot of blending so I'm not great at it to begin with. would you "fan" it out, or would you just let out on the trigger keeping the gun parallel and straight?
 

Chris_Hamilton

Trying to be the best me, I can be
Very slightly fan off while at the same time feathering off the trigger. Same method for starting, slightly fan in and feather on the trigger. Using blender or intercoat helps with the dry edges. You want it light but not dry. Play around with some masking paper and check for dryness. Oh and using slow or very slow reducer will help greatly. Using fast or medium will cause more dry edging. Practice some with some masking paper.
 
Very slightly fan off while at the same time feathering off the trigger. Same method for starting, slightly fan in and feather on the trigger. Using blender or intercoat helps with the dry edges. You want it light but not dry. Play around with some masking paper and check for dryness. Oh and using slow or very slow reducer will help greatly. Using fast or medium will cause more dry edging. Practice some with some masking paper.
Thanks Chris! I'm using medium reducer and wish i did use slow over the whole car for the base. Live and learn (the hard way)
 
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