JimKueneman
Mopar Nut
What is your favorite way (besides not doing it to start with) to fix a sand/burn through on an edge. Base is activated and it just hits the epoxy under it.
Jim
Jim
Oh no! Sorry to see this.
The pros will have good ideas, I'm sure.
I've have good results with shooting the spot with base with an airbrush and then using SPI blending solvent on a larger area of clear.
I’m DONE painting on the body.
That’s a great tip.Sharpie marker on edges will work as a guide coat to show you when to stop sanding. That leaves the maximum amount of paint so there's more to buff. Just can't use it on super fresh paint, the solvent in the marker will swell the paint a little.
A helpful hint for buffing around edges.. When your buffing pad is rotating and IF it travels across an edge, you want it to rotate off the edge (like the right arrow shows) rather than into an edge (left arrow). The left arrow would dig in as it hits the panel crease, burning the paint. So for the example shown, lifting slightly on the left side of the pad would help to eliminate the pad cutting into the crease. Always best to stay away from the edges as much as you can, but when you do need to venture close, this hint may help.
View attachment 29891
In this example, I might sometimes have the pressure on the pad at about 5 o'clock or 5:30 if I'm feeling cheeky. This has the rubbing action of the pad swiping at an angle that is almost along the line, instead of down or up across it. Sometimes this seems to get a smoother result in those kinds of areas, but don't blame me if you try it and accidentally tilt past 6:00!A helpful hint for buffing around edges.. When your buffing pad is rotating and IF it travels across an edge, you want it to rotate off the edge (like the right arrow shows) rather than into an edge (left arrow). The left arrow would dig in as it hits the panel crease, burning the paint. So for the example shown, lifting slightly on the left side of the pad would help to eliminate the pad cutting into the crease. Always best to stay away from the edges as much as you can, but when you do need to venture close, this hint may help.
View attachment 29891
This is another awesome tip. Thanks John!Sharpie marker on edges will work as a guide coat to show you when to stop sanding. That leaves the maximum amount of paint so there's more to buff. Just can't use it on super fresh paint, the solvent in the marker will swell the paint a little.
We need pictures dammit! But it sounds like a good spot for @Chris_Hamilton blending 101....Looks like no one including your conscience wants to give you the tough love proper repair of spotting in the base and clearing the whole panel Jimmy…
Someone had to do it…
Did you break through cutting or buffing? I assumed cutting.
Don
Just to be clear, 5 o'clock as in the picture above, but not on the lower part of that cove if buffing in the same direction.In this example, I might sometimes have the pressure on the pad at about 5 o'clock or 5:30 if I'm feeling cheeky. This has the rubbing action of the pad swiping at an angle that is almost along the line, instead of down or up across it. Sometimes this seems to get a smoother result in those kinds of areas, but don't blame me if you try it and accidentally tilt past 6:00!