Sand/Burn through on sharp edges

JimKueneman

JimKueneman

Mopar Nut
What is your favorite way (besides not doing it to start with) to fix a sand/burn through on an edge. Base is activated and it just hits the epoxy under it.

Jim
 
Oh no! Sorry to see this.
The pros will have good ideas, I'm sure.
I've have good results with shooting the spot with base with an airbrush and then using SPI blending solvent on a larger area of clear.
 
Dean Jenkins said:
Oh no! Sorry to see this.
The pros will have good ideas, I'm sure.
I've have good results with shooting the spot with base with an airbrush and then using SPI blending solvent on a larger area of clear.
Click to expand...

What I have been doing... this truck is so full of sharp edges.... along the box edges has been a fiasco. Just wondering what the "right" way is if there is one.
 
Can’t help you on the best repair process but taping your edges can help you avoid this. It takes time and a butt load of tape but it’s worth it in the long run. I remove it before my 2500 Buflex pass which cuts it down just enough with a little care.

Don
 
I use to but I thought I was beyond that..... not with edges this thing has apparently.... I get tired and sloppy.
 
Have you tried a paint pen for chip repairs yet? Looks like a useful tool for some fixes. I will probably start out using my air brush since multiple layers of paint will most likely need to be applied. I feel an airbrush will be the easiest to blend the paint in ( high ) before wet sanding ( level ) and smooth. after clear coat.

Whatever way I try, one thing is for sure.......it'll be an educational experience :D
 
A helpful hint for buffing around edges.. When your buffing pad is rotating and IF it travels across an edge, you want it to rotate off the edge (like the right arrow shows) rather than into an edge (left arrow). The left arrow would dig in as it hits the panel crease, burning the paint. So for the example shown, lifting slightly on the left side of the pad would help to eliminate the pad cutting into the crease. Always best to stay away from the edges as much as you can, but when you do need to venture close, this hint may help.

2ACBAAF7-20FD-4B85-8042-61C189DEC146.jpeg
 
theastronaut said:
Sharpie marker on edges will work as a guide coat to show you when to stop sanding. That leaves the maximum amount of paint so there's more to buff. Just can't use it on super fresh paint, the solvent in the marker will swell the paint a little.
Click to expand...
That’s a great tip.
If you are doing that during the buffing process, do you just make a pass over with the pad to then remove the remainIng sharpie ink? Or some solvent to remove when the buffing is complete?
 
MP&C said:
A helpful hint for buffing around edges.. When your buffing pad is rotating and IF it travels across an edge, you want it to rotate off the edge (like the right arrow shows) rather than into an edge (left arrow). The left arrow would dig in as it hits the panel crease, burning the paint. So for the example shown, lifting slightly on the left side of the pad would help to eliminate the pad cutting into the crease. Always best to stay away from the edges as much as you can, but when you do need to venture close, this hint may help.

View attachment 29891
Click to expand...


This is what I advocate as well. Always have the buffer spinning OFF the edge and not INTO the edge.
Tried taping the edges once but didn't like the way it looked when I removed the tape, so ended up buffing the edges anyway as described above.

As far as fixing the edge, I am at a loss and awaiting the pro's suggestions.
 
Looking at the illustration, the R side of the pad is going off but the L side is going into the edge. You must have to raise the pads edge to achieve the right angle. I try using a 3 inch pad on edges.
 
MP&C said:
A helpful hint for buffing around edges.. When your buffing pad is rotating and IF it travels across an edge, you want it to rotate off the edge (like the right arrow shows) rather than into an edge (left arrow). The left arrow would dig in as it hits the panel crease, burning the paint. So for the example shown, lifting slightly on the left side of the pad would help to eliminate the pad cutting into the crease. Always best to stay away from the edges as much as you can, but when you do need to venture close, this hint may help.

View attachment 29891
Click to expand...
In this example, I might sometimes have the pressure on the pad at about 5 o'clock or 5:30 if I'm feeling cheeky. This has the rubbing action of the pad swiping at an angle that is almost along the line, instead of down or up across it. Sometimes this seems to get a smoother result in those kinds of areas, but don't blame me if you try it and accidentally tilt past 6:00!
 
Looks like no one including your conscience wants to give you the tough love proper repair of spotting in the base and clearing the whole panel Jimmy… ;)

Someone had to do it…

Did you break through cutting or buffing? I assumed cutting.

Don
 
theastronaut said:
Sharpie marker on edges will work as a guide coat to show you when to stop sanding. That leaves the maximum amount of paint so there's more to buff. Just can't use it on super fresh paint, the solvent in the marker will swell the paint a little.
Click to expand...
This is another awesome tip. Thanks John!
 
crashtech said:
In this example, I might sometimes have the pressure on the pad at about 5 o'clock or 5:30 if I'm feeling cheeky. This has the rubbing action of the pad swiping at an angle that is almost along the line, instead of down or up across it. Sometimes this seems to get a smoother result in those kinds of areas, but don't blame me if you try it and accidentally tilt past 6:00!
Click to expand...
Just to be clear, 5 o'clock as in the picture above, but not on the lower part of that cove if buffing in the same direction.
 
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5:00, pretending the circle drawn over the photo is a clock face, but with the buffer higher up so the contact patch is just above the line. Sorry if the explanation is poor, lots of these things are easier shown than described.
 
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