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Speed Clear

I'm interested in hearing what you've learned about this new clear.
I’ve learned that some painters will take a while to get used to shorter, lower temp baking cycles. One guy baked it for too long and killed some of the gloss, wasn’t too happy about it. But after sticking with it and following the tech sheet he can’t believe how good is working for him with the slow activator. He’s really happy and already asking for more clear.

Myself I’ve had some small pinching with sorry arse Shopline solvent basecoat, gotta watch it with that line. Been spraying with 3102 bumpers and quarter panels 2-3 panel jobs with my 5500 RP 1.2 and based with Cromax Pro and it’s been working great with it, great flow and gloss.

We did a Tacoma hood that was sealed with 2K black sealer and based in Matrix, Toyota 209 black, metal temp around 72. We used slow act. with a LPH-400 1.3, it died back a bit, we didn’t shut the fan off right away, ran like 20 minutes. Gotta test some more with the solvent base and flash times between color and clear.


Paint Fanatic
Staff member
Thanks for the feedback, re baking to long and leaving fan run too long.

It amazes me how many calls I get with first-time users of all of our products, with statements, I left the fan running, and it died back, I thought it was a misprint, or I baked too long and too high, and it died again.

Not sure why sometimes we even bother to spend the money on tech sheets or catalogs

In summary, we have already Monday made a second batch and the calls I'm getting have been 100% in awe except for this post.

A dealership yesterday called said they loved it as have sprayed 3 gallons and was ordering more but he said painter wants to let it flash between coats as he thinks its wrong to shoot it with no flash.
My answer do yourself a favor and didn't buy it if he is going to let it flash.
Also, he said 8 mins at 140 baking was perfect.
He ordered two cases and said the painter would follow the tech sheet.


Active Member
Why would someone buy a product and not follow the manufacturer's recommendations? I mean, I guess I don't always wash my hair twice (rinse and repeat) so I get it, but this isn't shampoo, it's high-level chemical engineering. When the guy who owns and runs the company, and who is personally involved in development and testing, tells you "this is how you should use my product" that he personally designed and is willing to personally answer questions on 24/7, I'm pretty sure I would do what he says :rolleyes:.

Maybe if I had been doing this stuff for a long time (like washing my hair), I'd feel differently and rely on my experience. But, it is a new product, with significantly different applications / goals.

Keep the tech sheets, Barry, rookies like me need and rely upon them every damn time we paint!

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The Facebook page is the worst for guys not wanting to follow the book. Always blaming the clear for dieback.

I just ordered some slow activator. I tried the medium with retarder but it took a bit more effort to apply since the panel was up around 100+.

I love the back to back process.
I'm afraid to use it on bigger jobs so far, because I might make too much or too little. I'll have to get better at estimating use. Today I painted 2 door moldings and 2 flares, made 8 oz and was almost right on the money, had a 1/2 oz left in the cup at the end.
Last night I had to cover for a painter, sprayed 7 jobs in the space of 6 hrs, mostly bumpers and one 2 panel job. With a 50/50 mix of fast and medium this clear flows really well. I was unmasking cars in 20 minutes and out it goes and the next one in, no baking booth just a regular crossflow. I don't think I would've been able to finish all the jobs had I been using the Production clear. I sprayed everything with the 5500 RP 1.2 i and some panels actually look too flat for the factory finish. One job I did with the Supernova WS400 1.3 and came out looking a little thin, it's been a while I don't pick up that gun and it definitely shows lol, plus I was afraid to leave my signature on the job.
Thoroughly impressed with this clear on first 2 jobs. One black pearl Nissan hood and fender, and one black Mercedes 1/4 panel and bumper. Used epoxy, turbo primer, epoxy sealer, and DBC base. I mixed 12 oz. for the Nissan, and 16oz. for the Mercedes, and had 2-3 ounces left on each. The second coat goes on quicker than using a clear with flash times because it is still so wet. Clear sprayed super easy, matched factory texture perfect, and had really nice gloss with not even a hint of any dieback. Mercedes I didn't buff and still looked nicer than factory. Nissan had 3 or 4 pieces of trash in hood so i buffed it next morning. Buffed good, a little harder than universal, but that was expected. Overall, I'd rate it 10 out of 10 so far. PS, I forgot to add that I pulled the Nissan out of the booth after 1 hour, and left it outside while I was doing the Mercedes. The weather was cloudy in the mid 70's. Next thing I knew the sun was out, so the black hood and fender sat outside in the sun for probably 3-4 hours. Still not a hint of any dieback or solvent pop.
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Looking for insight. I used the fast activator at 70 deg and baked it with a short wave lamp then let it sit overnight. It was harder to buff than I expected. Anyone bake then buff next day?


Paint Fanatic
Staff member
Your issue was not the next day, but the fast activator will tend to suck moisture if adverse conditions time of painting.
And water works as an accelerator.
Cleared a black Tundra bedside and tailgate today, and really poured the clear to it almost trying to get a run, as a test. Now tomorrow I will have to figure out how to add some orange peel to it. Came out flat as any clear I've sprayed. This stuff is incredible.


Paint Fanatic
Staff member
Just an update this is our first designed ad by the rebrander to go in ABRN magazine next month.
I had rough designed most of the other, but he said he had too much info in them.
He has nothing well light on tech information, but he's one of the best in the country, so I cant wait to see the results.

It is short, and to the point, this will be a full page.