SPI vs Speedokote???

Well it is a speedokote youtube channel so odds are he's not going to bash his own product.
 
Yeah I get that. Not sure what kind of deal they got going on. He claims he doesnt work for them or sell their products but he must be compensated somehow for promoting their products.
 
If he's not getting any type of compensation then that's pretty dumb on his part IMO.. His youtube channel is named after the company.

Overall, doesn't seem like a terrible guy. His stuff seems to be tailored around extremely cheap work and there is definitely a market for that.
 
He must have some sort of deal obviously, nobody creates a channel around someone’s product. I agree seems decent, def cheap jobs. Hey I did plenty of that when I was young and was real hungry. Still do some here and there.
 
I've honestly been trying to stay away from anything paint related on youtube unless its by a well known name. I'm just tired of seeing videos of "painted my car with $20 in rustoleum and the results were riddler worthy".. Whenever I see "$200 paintjob" I already know there is a HF purple gun in there and an oilless 30 gallon compressor(yes I've been there)
 
It'll probably hold up fine for someone who is looking to spend $200 in total for materials for their project, lol.

I've painted some stuff with some cheaper shit like nason and such and honestly there is a difference when it comes to that garbage and SPI, PPG deltron, and any of the higher quality clears.

Now this is just my opinion, but unless a company like speedokote can show me their manufacturing facility then I always just lump them up with relabeled low low line stuff. I may be wrong in that, but thats just how I feel.
 
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A real test would have been for each guy to use each product on separate fenders. Speedo guy had a SATA and the other had a Prolite? They didn't mention needle size either. Or, what speed reducer. Too many variables.
 
AAE said:
A real test would have been for each guy to use each product on separate fenders. Speedo guy had a SATA and the other had a Prolite? They didn't mention needle size either. Or, what speed reducer. Too many variables.
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yes, just the fact that 1 got runs and the other didnt proves a large amount of variables are in play.
 
I agree. Anything looks good right after it’s sprayed. How it holds up long term is more important. Actually, some cheap clears don’t even look great a couple weeks after they’re sprayed. I’ve had some cheap stuff look great off the gun then it dies back, pinches etc. It’s not worth it. Even cheap clear isn’t all that cheap anymore. If I’m in a pinch though, I will say I can snag some acme fc710/720 locally and that’s some darn good clear for the money if I run out and need something that day. And I know it holds up pretty good long term as well.
 
Can Speedkote say they have been the clear used on a car that was Best Of Show at the Peeble Beach Concours D'Elegance? I don't think so.

And runs don't really prove anything. Some of the cheapest least lasting clear sprays really nice. Very easy to spray in fact. Means nothing. Runs with SPI Universal usually means you aren't using enough air pressure. Just another meaningless test on one of about 10,000 useless Youtube channels.

Universal is a true high solids clear. Probably one of the highest solid clears available. It sprays different from the medium solid clears that most guys are used to spraying. FIrst few times I used Universal I struggled with runs because I wasn't using enough air pressure. I had been used to spraying the medium solid clears that dominate the collision field. Once I turned the air pressure up some I could spray it OK. Then once I really bumped up the air pressure using my Sata RP I could spray it like any other clear.
 
Whitesnake said:
I’m embarrassed to say I’ve never sprayed universal lol. Maybe I’ll have a job I deem worthy enough for it sometime in the near future.
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You can use it for collision/production as well. Reduce 10% spray 2 coats, it's almost as fast as Euro or Production Clear. I think in the Tech Manual it says/said "one clear that truly will do it all".
 
SPI FTW:)

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You spray it how you want it to look. Hammering it on is not how I would describe how to spray it though. With my Sata RP 1.3 I'm at 1.5 turns out from fully closed. 75% overlap and 36-38 PSI with the trigger pulled. It wants a lot of air pressure. More than you think it needs. When you get it right it will spray like Euro or other easy to spray clears. Like I said above first few times I sprayed it, I had issues with sags/runs. Bumped up the pressure some and could spray it pretty decent though not as good as other clears like Euro. When I really upped the pressure it sprayed like a different clear. Laid out very nicely. Texture free essentially. So no don't hammer it on, you want it wet but you tighten your overlap more. That is what will help you get it to lay down. Overlap and air pressure.
Less material/fluid per pass but tighter overlap and more PSI. Low and medium solids clears you can get away with really heavy wet coats with less overlap. A true high solids clear like UV, you have to spray it a little different.
 
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