SPI vs Speedokote???

In the video he compares texture or peel. But there's too many variables involved to blame that on clear. He also ran his own line of clear off the panel. So he intentionally slammed it. I had a guy come out and demo the clear he sells and he ran it as well. I'll never forget that day.

In speedokote defense like OJ said, product is geared towards $300 dollars all in paint jobs. Big market for that, especially on YouTube. People watching YouTube want to diy and spend as little as possible.
 
Hmm I’ll have to give it a try. With my lph I spray close and fast with tight overlaps. I guess hammer it on was the wrong wording. But more so if I spray it how I want it to look I’m not gonna come back in 5 minutes and have runs everywhere. I used to spray a 2:1 clear that was like that when I was younger. I’d have to spray it looking totally unacceptable knowing in a few minutes it would look great. I got the hang of it, but I’m not a fan of those clears. Do you know? Or @Barry , if say I had some lower end work being it’s such high solids, could I get away with say 1:1:1/2? Just for dealer work, touch ups etc. Of course with no ill effects such as die back etc. I think I’m gonna give some a try. It’s about time I try the flagship clear! Haha
 
A real test would have been for each guy to use each product on separate fenders. Speedo guy had a SATA and the other had a Prolite? They didn't mention needle size either. Or, what speed reducer. Too many variables.
Actually he’s not using a Sata. Sticking with the trend of targeting low end jobs and products…that’s his “own” gun. I believe he calls it the Mark1 NV1? Looks like a Chinesium DV1. He used to spray with satas, teknas, etc in the older videos but ever since he branded his own gun nothing else compares. Maybe it’s built in one of the high quality Chinese factories?
 
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Actually he’s not using a Sata. Sticking with the trend of targeting low end jobs and products…that’s his “own” gun. I believe he calls it the Mark1? Looks like a Chinesium dv1. He used to spray with satas, teknas, etc in the older videos but ever since he branded his own gun nothing else compares. Maybe it’s built in one of the high quality Chinese factories?
I've never seen him
 
ever since he branded his own gun nothing else compares. Maybe it’s built in one of the high quality Chinese factories?
I was surprised at SEMA. About 20 (no exaggeration) vendors selling paint guns that I had never heard of. Some of them looked really nice. And many offered private label.
 
I was surprised at SEMA. About 20 (no exaggeration) vendors selling paint guns that I had never heard of. Some of them looked really nice. And many offered private label.
Yeah just like everything it’s getting out of control. Many items out there are just rebranded. I can’t trust any of the knock offs. I don’t see the point. Not when I can get a known brand for a fair price. That I know will stay in business and be able to supply parts if needed.
 
Iwata, Devilbiss and Sata all have a ton of knockoffs.. I do see reviews on them all the time. I get it that some of them perform well.

I bought that vevor gun that was making its rounds on the DIY youtube channels, it was complete garbage.
 
Iwata, Devilbiss and Sata all have a ton of knockoffs.. I do see reviews on them all the time. I get it that some of them perform well.

I bought that vevor gun that was making its rounds on the DIY youtube channels, it was complete garbage.
its alright for epoxy that gets sanded or covered up with poly. or 2k. i wouldnt paint anything with it. i mean i guess it does ok. but , meh
 
I was hoping to use it for primer as the fan looked great, but its just spit and sputtered all over the place and I didn't have time to diagnose it. I mean I tried to, but gave up after a few minutes and just dumped the primer back into my trusty 12 year old finishline gun and moved on with life. Chalked it up as a wasted amazon gift card.
 
I was hoping to use it for primer as the fan looked great, but its just spit and sputtered all over the place and I didn't have time to diagnose it. I mean I tried to, but gave up after a few minutes and just dumped the primer back into my trusty 12 year old finishline gun and moved on with life. Chalked it up as a wasted amazon gift card.
On knock-off or copies of successful spray gun designs with spitting--try putting the gun in a vise with soft jaws and take a wrench and tighten the fluid tip way tighter than you think is necessary. Many do not have concentric machining on the gun body for the fluid tip to seat well with normal screw-down "take-up"--the gun head or body is soft and the tip is harder for a bedding effect.
 
Hmm I’ll have to give it a try. With my lph I spray close and fast with tight overlaps. I guess hammer it on was the wrong wording. But more so if I spray it how I want it to look I’m not gonna come back in 5 minutes and have runs everywhere. I used to spray a 2:1 clear that was like that when I was younger. I’d have to spray it looking totally unacceptable knowing in a few minutes it would look great. I got the hang of it, but I’m not a fan of those clears. Do you know? Or @Barry , if say I had some lower end work being it’s such high solids, could I get away with say 1:1:1/2? Just for dealer work, touch ups etc. Of course with no ill effects such as die back etc. I think I’m gonna give some a try. It’s about time I try the flagship clear! Haha
Anyone have any insight on the reduction of universal I mentioned here? @Barry
 
I've only reduced Universal that much to try to overcome a fisheye issue, but that was followed by full strength coats. I do know it can take 5% with no issue, if I was you I'd try 10% and go from there, film build will start to drop pretty drastically with lots of reduction.
 
On knock-off or copies of successful spray gun designs with spitting--try putting the gun in a vise with soft jaws and take a wrench and tighten the fluid tip way tighter than you think is necessary. Many do not have concentric machining on the gun body for the fluid tip to seat well with normal screw-down "take-up"--the gun head or body is soft and the tip is harder for a bedding effect.

Duly noted.
 
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