spray Universal clear in Non- baking paint booth.

Inhave never had universal take 30 min to flash. Once i can lightly run my finger over it and not have it stick then its ready to gi. If it takes me 20 min to make it around all my parts then its damn near ready to just start the next coat
I know it flashes earlier, but I wait the full 30 minutes to let it out-gas. I figure it helps to guard against solvent pop. Then again, I'm a hobbyist, never on the clock or in a hurry.
 
Weird. All these years and gallons upon gallons of this stuff I have always waited 30 from when I was done spraying. Guess that's just what the manual always said so I figured there was some engineering behind it
 
Weird. All these years and gallons upon gallons of this stuff I have always waited 30 from when I was done spraying. Guess that's just what the manual always said so I figured there was some engineering behind it
I think 30 minutes gives margin to insure no problems. And don’t forget Jim C lives a charmed life…. ;)
 
Nothing wrong with waiting 30 minutes. If you are in a production environment then you go as soon as the clear doesn't string, but if not then 30 minutes is good practice to do so.

Stuff I'm doing these days I always defer to what Barry said to do. Especially when using his products.

As for turning the booth off between coats, like I said above it's going to be most helpful if your booth pulls too much air. Most don't. Usually the ones that do are unregulated professional style booths with 36 inch or larger fans. Started work at a Shop once with a Devilbiss booth that was running wide open all the time. Owner was complaining about everything having die back and some with solvent pop. First thing I did was turn off between coats until I could get a VFD. Once I got the VFD I ended up with a setting of 32% (of max). Once I did that the issues disappeared and you didn't necessarily have to turn off between coats. Unless you know you have too much air moving through (think roaring) then it's probably not going to make a lot of difference, although it's not going to hurt anything doing so.
 
Not to go off subject but on collision work for the last year I been using SPI Production clear and I love what I can do with it and I do shut down between coats , most time just 2 coats. Euro for the restoration work
 
I've been fighting that with Euro for a while now.
Iso clumping?

 
When I think iso clumping I think pimples that you can feel. When I describe micro popping I would say its more of very small pin holes mostly on the horizontal surfaces.

I did deal with some iso clumping a few weeks back when shooting some satin black(not spi) a few weeks back. I think it was from some old hardener I used. I was being cheap and noticed I had some left over from the previous batch and not realizing that the stuff was over 2 years old.

When I reshot the parts with the same can of satin black, but the new hardener I had no issues. Lesson learned.
 
Iso clumping?

I don't think so, when it happens it has all the classic signs of solvent pop, just very tiny and appearing well after the last coat, typically only on horizontal surfaces and/or where I'm a little bit heavy-handed. it always buffs right out. I think I might have a little moisture in my air even with the big desiccant in the booth. I've been needing to use slower than usual reducer to avoid it.
 
Nothing wrong with waiting 30 minutes. If you are in a production environment then you go as soon as the clear doesn't string, but if not then 30 minutes is good practice to do so.

Stuff I'm doing these days I always defer to what Barry said to do. Especially when using his products.

As for turning the booth off between coats, like I said above it's going to be most helpful if your booth pulls too much air. Most don't. Usually the ones that do are unregulated professional style booths with 36 inch or larger fans. Started work at a Shop once with a Devilbiss booth that was running wide open all the time. Owner was complaining about everything having die back and some with solvent pop. First thing I did was turn off between coats until I could get a VFD. Once I got the VFD I ended up with a setting of 32% (of max). Once I did that the issues disappeared and you didn't necessarily have to turn off between coats. Unless you know you have too much air moving through (think roaring) then it's probably not going to make a lot of difference, although it's not going to hurt anything doing so.
I agree having a variable fan and controller is nice. I don’t wanna feel like I’m painting in a wind tunnel. I want as little as possible while still being able to see what I’m doing. Too much air just creates problems in many ways.
 
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