I had a friend who's Dad got him one for his birthday back when we were teenagers. Pretty little car. I had a 1970 Datsun 240Z that had a little done to it. The look of disappointment on his face when he realized his car was much slower than mine still makes me chuckle. I tried to console him, telling him it looked really nice (which it did). Unfortunately four weeks after he got it, it burned to the ground at a stoplight. Electrical fire which then caught everything ablaze. Luckily he was unharmed. British Engineering. He then proceeded to get a new 91 LX 5.0 and finally had a faster car than me (just barely though...)
Good luck with your Project.
Matte black is for the bottom. I'm 99% sure I will stick witb red (color of my original TR7). Here is a picture with both cars. I was shufling stuff in my garage a few months ago and ended up with a cool picture of my two TR7's.
Chris, I know exactly where you are coming from. My dash caught on fire driving to school one morning in 1989. I completely redid the Red car (except the body) about 3 years ago. Custom suspension, big brakes, ford 302, Narrowed an 8.8,etc. 25 years os driving a 90 hp car was enough.
Epoxy is on! It will get matte black on the bottom this weekend. I did a coat of black epoxy, and then gray. That made it super easy to make sure everything got two coats. That will also make it easy to make sure it all gets the matte black. The first pic is bare steel in the back, not the gray epoxy (During a cup refill). 2nd picture is the complated gray epoxy. It took 4 hrs to spray each coat. 8 hrs total. I wasn't expecting that. Holy crap, so many nooks and crannies in the bottom and in the engine bay! Not a bare spot anywhere now.
Still plugging away. I have spent the past few months dialing in some perfectly shaped seam sealer on the welded panel joints among some other things. I have also spent a ton of time working out a masking plan to protect my beautiful SPI matte black underbody. OCD slows me way down, but I think it will turn out really nice.
I just finished a first round of blocking on the 2 coats of epoxy that I put on the body last fall. I found a hand full of tiny spots that I want to get straightened out. The biggest thing (which I knew about before blocking) is that all 4 wheel arches are wavy from the factory spot welds between the inner and outer fenders. I am going to spot spray epoxy on those areas tonight to prep for a little filler. I have been doing a lot of reading on "cratering" or "fisheye" with the SPI epoxy. I saw some of that on my first coats and I don't want to see it again.
If I get the spots I identified in my initial blocking dialed in, I am thinking I am close enough on the rest of the surfaces that a few more coats of epoxy may be sufficient for final blocking. I already put 2 coats of epoxy and then 2 coats of 2k primer on the door skins (window frames and jams have 2 coats of epoxy only). Should I stick with 2k primer everywhere at this point? I may end up blocking most of the 2k off the door skins anyway. I had never thought of blocking out the epoxy, but this wonderful forum gave me that idea. Thanks guys.