USC All Metal: Over or under epoxy?

T

TransAm_Stan

Right now I have bare metal. I need to apply All Metal to my quarter/roof joint (there was lead in there before).

What is the best avenue? Over or under the epoxy primer?

What say you?

Thanks!

Stan
 
i say throw the all metal in the trash and use a better filler. i have never had or seen good results on it. evercoat 870 would be a better choice.
 
if theres any chance moisure can get to it from the back side it's a great product to use. i personally like to apply it to bare metal.
 
Unless All Metal has changed it seemed brittle to me. I've not used it since the mid 70's. I've strippied a few cars in the past and it appeared the primer (not epoxy primer)didn't really adhere to it and it crumbled or chipped when I removed it cold with a putty knife.
 
The hardener ratio is critical on that stuff, or it will either crack or fall apart. I've seen it fail more than any other filler.
 
So what everyone is saying I need evercoat 870?

I really do not want to learn how to do lead at this time!

Thanks a bunch

Stan
 
the evercoat is the only thing i have found that is pretty bullet proof. it holds up well and does not shrink or swell. apply it smooth as it is a hard filler adhesive and hard to sand after cure.
 
Shine, do you know why Evercoat says to use it as finishing filler over everglass, on metal seams? Is it too hard to get it down in all the nooks and crannys?
 
best guess is because it helps prevent mapping from the repair. personally i dont like the glass fillers because of the mapping.
 
Used all metal 3 yrs ago on my bare metal roof seams. Then epoxied and poly primed. No probs at all. Been in sun everyday.
 
it has changed names several times since the 70's. mainly because of failure rate. alumalead was the same stuff. extremely hard to get a correct mix . i have used it many times. but after some failures with it i put it on the " no " list. i can not risk it . same with dynatron bondo products . the 870 so far has been good. it does not seem to react to uv at all. once cured it is some tuff stuff. great for doing gaps on vettes. i will use a lot of it on Inderweed . i also am interested in the hybrid epoxy filler quantum .
 
Ditch the silver fillers, nobody uses them in this area because the failure rate was high.
 
HOW can it be ALL metal when the primary ingrediants are polyester resin and talc? I can not for the life of me see how adding 10-20% powdered aluminum adds anything to the filler.

I bet if you ask the manufacturer how it can be all metal,, they would reply because you can use it on all metals.

This marketing ploy is right up there with the poorboy 15 and other snake oils imho.Maybe it is the castor bean oil that makes it special, LOL.


INGREDIENTS WGT% CAS #
Styrene 15-25% 100-42-5
Non-fibrous talc 15-25% 14807-96-6
Castor Oil Derivative 0-3% 8001-78-3
Aluminum Powder 10-20% 7429-90-5
 
these types of fillers were pushed back in the day of the diy repairs. little kit with some screen and the all new metal filler. folks in the ne bought into it big time to fix rust. it has just never been very dependable . much like the kitty hair products that came along later.
 
http://www.aircraftspruce.com/catalog/cspages/dentfiller.php There is a product called Aerodynamic Dent Filler description and available at Aircraft Spruce. It is used extensively by the airlines and general aviation on aircraft and is usable on most metals(including hard to deal with magnesium). I believe it is epoxy and aluminum based. I bought some recently and am going to try it out on the recommendation of some highly experience aviation mechanics. I'm sure it'll be hard to sand but I expect it to be an extremely durable waterproof bond-otherwise the airlines and general aviation would not use it extensively.
 
It may be good filler but watch for expansion differences that may show up your repair areas when in the hot summer sun... This also happens with a lot of the automotive fillers especially the alluminum and chopped glass type. The thicker it's applied the more likely it will show on a hot summer day. Roof seams I'll oftentimes weld the inner then section the outer and butt weld a strip in that area so the filler thickness is less. 54.jpg
 
Just called Evercoat. They say to use Everglass first. Then I can use 870 as a finishing filler.

This goes against everything I am reading here. Especially since Shine says 870 sands so hard.

This is what I am going to do. Unless you say I am way of base. I am trusting your real world experience ...

Lay down 870 in the seam. Then finish with Evercoat Rage Extreme.

The only question I have is the 870 under the epoxy (bare metal) or over the epoxy.

Thanks so much for your patience.

Stan
 
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