Wanda

yea, just a tad. both are cleared with wanda clear. could be off in the mix, this is why i like to mix my own colors....people think i'm crazy for having a mixing machine and i mainly do restorations......but when those small jobs come in i need the paint now and i dont need any mistakes.....if there are i'd rather them be mine that i can correct within a few minutes..rather than wait on a store 10 min away.

but as of the moment i dont have any complaints with the wanda base. i held the sikkens panel up to the colormap chip which the code calls for in their book, no where close to it....that has been a problem with sikkens ever since they introduced autobase plus. must be the reason they finally stopped producing the color map book. i'm going to take the panel to the store and check the wanda book and see how close it is.

i should go down in get some matrix and see how close....i mean far off it is..lol.
 
sprayed some silver today...bmw silver gray and blended hood, header panel, cowl screen, and door. first of all the colormatch was second to none....the sprayout matched the color in the sikkens book....and was relatively close to the car (have NO idea what paint was used on the car). the blend was easy, imo easier than with sikkens......i would always fight a bit of mottle with sikkens in a silver blend, used rm bc00 as a wet bed. i purposely left a few pinholes in the bodywork, very small, to see how the base would act with sanding and filling those pinholes...did as good as sikkens. this car is by no means a show piece.

my only complaint as of now, really isn't one though, is that it sprays a little on the dry side. i've been using sikkens for so long i'm used to a wet spraying base..as with lesonal, diamont and spies that i've used. metallic laid even and effortlessly.


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I would without a doubt be activating that base until you have experience with it.
Dry spray fast dry on a silver could be a long term disaster waiting to happen. Activator should help with this.

4003 or 4004 one ounce per mix quart, the slower the activator the better.

Just my 2 cents worth!
 
i agree, and i'm not saying it sprays dry with dry spray, just compared to sikkens it doesn't spray as wet. always using slow or extra slow reducers and activators. only fast activators on my shelf are for quick jobs and they are for clear only.
 
sikkens has always been know as being a hot system, same with basf. this is probably why the sikkens sprayed a little wetter.
 
Today I got my hands on some Wanda basecoat, I got half a pint of some Hyundai silver (2R code), they mixed the standard formula, it was spot on. Coverage was alright at 3 coats, I usually lay down intercoat clear before the base but this time around I decided to skip it and see how fast the color would cover and how it would blend, like Jeremy said it does spray a little on the dry side but overall it worked pretty good, seemed to cover a couple of scratches of 400 dry I failed to remove when final sanding with 600 wet, so far so good.

Just for the hell of it I got a mix of 4oz of Toyota Olive (6T7 code), I had to do a very small spot on the lower corner of a bumper, this mix was quite a bit off. Im guessing the lady mixing it went too crazy with one of the toners in the formula and threw it off being that it was only 4 oz, it was very easy to tint to a good match though. Sprayed nice and even, 3 coats for full hiding, another coat just to be 100% sure, blended very nice too.

So far I liked it better than the little I have used of Limco Supreme Plus, price wise I think it's a wash between the two, both of them way cheaper than Spies, I will be using more of it and see how the color matches compare.
 
Jorge, I have found this base sprays way better with a 1.4 in my lph. I usually use a 1.3 with sikkens and others...but after moving to a 1.4 I won't go back with this base. It is just a little thicker than sikkens..enough to have to move up a tip size without over reducing.
 
jeremyb;14327 said:
Jorge, I have found this base sprays way better with a 1.4 in my lph. I usually use a 1.3 with sikkens and others...but after moving to a 1.4 I won't go back with this base. It is just a little thicker than sikkens..enough to have to move up a tip size without over reducing.
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Guess I got lucky I haven't changed my LPH-400 1.4 tip then, I'm still waiting for the cold to show up here in Vegas and then switch to 1.3 but if I keep on using the wanda I'll stick with 1.4, thanks for the heads up.

You think it will spray smoother and wetter going with slower reducer? I will try that and deal with the extra flash times.
 
I use extra slow reducer. Only other spi reducer I've used is slow, but that was before the extra slow came out I believe. When I first started using wanda though, I used some wanda slow reducer....I could tell a major difference between that and the spi extra slow, spraying wise. The store that carries spi for me sells more SPI reducer than wanda. LOL.

What you could do is maybe over reduce..maybe an ounce or 2 per quart. Won't be sacrificing much coverage at that rate depending on color.
 
Just did a tri-stage blend with wanda. Total price for the gound coat and mid coat came in at a whopping $50. I ordered a bit more than I should...but always do incase I screw up. LOL.

It did take 4 coats of white to cover the gray primer though. 3 coats of mid coat followed by 2 wet coats of 2.1 production clear and done. I'm happy...especially with the peel. I don't do much of this type of work and everytime I do, I realize why I dont...but it is a nice break from bondo and primer dust all day. A simple blend...but it was easy and the color is dead on, went with the redder variant that it called for in the computer. As far as I'm concerned, there isn't anyone out there that can tell me that this stuff doesn't match and doesn't blend well.

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Looks great! When you spray the 2.1 do you spray the first coat more medium wet to create some texture then full wet on the second or just two wet coats and done?
 
On this I did 2 wet coats since I was just clearing over gray scotchbrite scratches at the adjacent panels. heres a good pic

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Doing a truck bed on a dodge truck now. I'll probably do a medium coat and a wet coat back to back with med activator since I've primed the entire bed.
 
I might give Wanda a try if I can find her in my area. I picked up a 2006 Impala police cruizer for a first car for my Daughter, now comes the project of removing the lights and making it look somewhat like an LTZ model. It would be the perfect candidate for some budget paint.
 
You know, when I first started using it I had the mindset that it was budget paint. I'm just not so sure about that as of the moment. I don't know the "real" reason why akzo doesn't distribute it themselves, but after using it for a while, I can take a pretty wild guess.

Here's the truck bed. 3 coats over spi gray sealer. Went with a redder variant, I could have tinted to get it a little closer but this is a work truck...will do just fine.

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I think if more shops gave other basecoats a try, the majors would find a way to make their high line products a little more affordable. I also don't think that the 2.1 production clear is as budget as some might think :)
 
I think it is every bit as quality as the other "high end" stuff. I did 2 wet coats back to back on the nissan, fast activator. Baked for about 20 min and was ready to put back together after about an hour or so. pretty good for under $20 a quart rts, and quick enough for me.

The paint companies are already getting desperate. A shop here, glasurit put in a water machine...told the shop they promised they would make 50% profit if they would let them put their stuff in. Either it BS, or they aren't making much by having it in the shop....but are desperate to have the account to keep sales up. Hard to know, but they were told they would make 50%.
 
Latest wanda job. SPI 2100 production clear.

When it allows, I always try to give myself plenty of blend room. I don't crash paint everday so the more helps..LOL.

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Was a little worried on this color. But covered in 2 coats and blended very well. Sure could have done it within the door. It's the misses car so no harm done....unless I f'd it up..LOL.
 
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