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Wandabase substrate prep.

#1
How many of you follow wandabase sanding recommendations? I here a lot of folks say P500 to P600 wet is great for metallic paints but Wanda's tech sheet says Dry sanding with final sanding step #P500 to #P600 · Initial sanding steps may be executed with a coarser sanding · If initially sanded with coarser paper, it must be over sanded with #P500 to P#600. Wet sanding with final sanding step #P800 to #P1000 · Initial sanding steps may be executed with a coarser sanding grit #P600 · If initially sanded with coarser paper, it must be over sanded with #P800 to P#1000. Should I follow there tech sheet and do my final dry sand with P600 and then wet sand with P800? Or is P400 dry and then p500 wet good enough? I'm doing a complete paint if that helps with any advise. Thanks.
 

Barry

Paint Fanatic
Staff member
#2
My thought if i was doing would be don't care as i may stop with 320 dry 9 times out of 10 but than spraying a coat of epoxy sealer. So don't matter.
Their directions confuse me as to why.
Once again if doing a sealer it takes care of the confusion
 
#4
With the Wanda base I have used I stopped with 400 wet. Shot reduced epoxy as sealer and based without sanding. No issues with sand scratches. I believe I could stop with 320 on a solid color but have never had the courage to push my luck. The epoxy as a sealer will really give you a margin of safety.

I did have one divit in the base I sanded out with 400. I recoated it without sealing and could see the area I sanded until I cleared it. It was on the front body mount and was not an issue but had it been on a body panel, I would have wanted to go finer than the 400 if I was not going to re-seal.

John
 
#5
I am using Wanda on my truck and do it as Barry states, 320 and then epoxy/sealer. It works great, however I'm painting a solid color.
 
#7
Thanks for the replies gentlemen. I have talked with Barry several times over the phone in the past and had decided to go 2K and block with 220, respray 2K then 400 and sealer then base but that Wanda tech sheet really threw me for a loop. once again guys thanks for easing my mind.
 
#8
i use wanda all the time and i have never done anything different with it than i have with diamont, hok or any other base. typical rule of thumb has always been 400 for solids and 600 for metallics. you can get by with 400 on metallics if you spray a good sealer before.
 
#9
I also use Wanda most of the time on my collision work and same as Jim C said. Some jobs will wet sand w/ #600 and right to base others da w/320-400 seal then base.
 
#10
Thanks Jim and El Toro! I was hoping you would chime in with Barry Jim C. I have a question on the sealer. I sprayed two coats of SPI 2K regular build and blocked with 220 and took care of any low or high spots. I then went over that with 400 and when finished with 400 I spot primed any bare metal with Spi epoxy and then shot 2 more coats of regular build 2K over the whole car. I was planning on wet sanding that with 500. So my question is, If after wet sanding and if I don't sand through anywhere would it be okay to go strait to my base coats or should I spray sealer no matter what? I only ask this because I'm wondering what would happen if I sprayed sealer and ended up with it having a texture to it. I'm spraying a metallic base.
 
#11
sealer isnt completely necessary. you can paint right over sanded primer. it has been done for years..HOWEVER, you will have better adhesion and a more even color and surface for the base to go over if you use a sealer. if you use epoxy for sealer you can mix 1:1:1 and end up with a micro thin layer that has no texture. you can use the 2k sealer as well the same way. reduce it 2 parts and spray 1 coat.
 
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