What are the benifits of epoxy only (no 2k)

the epoxy is just a little slower. i wait over night to block a coat. as for build i get as much with it as with any other primer i have used. there are exception though. i never hurry a job so cure time is not a factor. i think that is what causes most shrinkage is guys going too fast.. in a weeks time i can apply the epoxy and block it doing one coat at a time.
i doubt i was the first to use epoxy only . although i did it back in the early 70's but it was a pia then. we were still fighting lacquer then. the best i ever had was some stuff from europe. couldn't even read the damn label. got it from a guy who restored austin healy's . guy was awesome , he made all his own panels and such.
 
by the way. the viper 2.3 i bought for 44 bucks at northern will flat lay down some epoxy .

mustang looks like it has 12 miles on it...... :)
 
Shine, when spraying with a 2.3 tip do you spray just one coat and sand the next day?
I find two coats with a 1.8 tip takes a minimum of 24 hours before it sands decent.
 
I always mix my epoxy the day before also and sometimes 2days for extra build. I spray three coats with my 1.5 Iwata primer gun with several hours between coats. I let it sit at least a week before blocking. I'm very happy with the build that three coats gives me. I'd have to check my records but I'm probably on my 8th gallon of epoxy on the Marmon I've been working on between the chassis and body. Sometimes I reach for the turbo on some of the modern stuff or bikes but I like the way epoxy sands better than 2k. Rarely am I under a time restraint.
 
I was very pleased with the way the epoxy performed on the vette. I will be doing another one here in a few weeks that will be epoxy only. After i think about it, i could have left the poly step out on the black vette and continued with the epoxy...but was the first time using epoxy as my surfacer so was kind of unsure.

This thing baked out in the sun for a few days cut open after clear, zero sandscratch swelling. theres usually always a spot or 2 that come up when using a 2k primer.....any 2k primer. you know those last minute repairs that you think you gave anough time to cure.

great results can come from both...wether its epoxy or 2k, it gets set out in the sun after every primer session.
 
Shine, are those lace panties comfortable? I haven`t wore any yet. lol. Can`t wait to hear this response.
 
No Shine/lace pics please, I just think the epoxy is more stable and durable overall, I haven't had any problems using poly primer for the major blocking and finishing with epoxy but I'm always looking for better results. Just looked at the Kid's car yesterday, there isn't one hint of any shrinkage, mapping, swelling, dieback-it's lazer straight and glossy as hell! He's been on the road for 5 summers now and is never garage kept, and talk about chip resistance even though there was a layer of polyprimer for the major blocking-hood and front end are perfect!!! The only place there's some minor chips is where the rear tires throw up on the lower rear quarter to trunk drop off flange during burnouts (second set of tires on this car!) and they are like micro sized. All the wheel opening flanges are perfect. I fully expect it to last 30 years.
 
If you use epoxy 1st then 2k or high build 2k for blocking straight, then another 2 or 3 good seal coats of epoxy (LOTS OF CURE TIME BETWEEN). Then wet sand. SHOULDNT THAT BE EQUAL TO ALL EPOXY DURABILITY & NO SHRINKAGE?
 
Epoxy is tougher and less prone to chip, as I understand it. There is nothing wrong with doing what you suggester though. IMO
 
littleguy06;9263 said:
If you use epoxy 1st then 2k or high build 2k for blocking straight, then another 2 or 3 good seal coats of epoxy (LOTS OF CURE TIME BETWEEN). Then wet sand. SHOULDNT THAT BE EQUAL TO ALL EPOXY DURABILITY & NO SHRINKAGE?
Click to expand...

Equal? No. Acceptable? Yes, especially if you let the 2k sit in the sun for a week before final sanding and sealing with epoxy. However if you have it blocked straight with your 2k primer two to three coats of epoxy on top is overkill in MHO.
 
Now all of a sudden 2k is just acceptable? Has anyone used SPI 2k primer, applied it per instructions and seen shrinkage?

When I talked with barry off this site, he says his primer will fill 80grit scratches, no issued(although I prime on 150).

I'm not a big fan of assumptions, so I want to know who has HAD problems with SPI 2k and if you did, is it becasue you abused it(heavy coats and not enough flashtime)

Honest answers please.
 
Never had any shrinkage problems with turbo but I've never abused it.
 
OJ,

About a year ago I tried to have a local shop finish up my car. I did all the metal work, and gave it to him in epoxy. Long story short, they where doing a real hack job from my observations, and they caught the back of the car on fire (the last straw). I finished most of the body work that spring and drove the car over last summer with an epoxy top coat.

This spring when I started blocking, I found quite a few low spots and sand scratches from shrinkage. I talked to Barry about the problem, and he said it could be anything, based on the type of work that guy was doing. There where 3 products used on the car: Evercoat filler, SPI epoxy and SPI Turbo. Is abuse a factor?Absolutely! But still, shrinkage scares me to death now. I always sit my parts in the sun between steps now.
 
Ya, they caught the car on fire, lol. Trusting any of the other work they did is hard.


I'm not saying it its not possible for it to shrink. It's just that Barry strikes me as the type of guy who would make it KNOWN that its easy to miss use his products.

I've had good luck with his products thus far. I dont typcally rush jobs, so I can prime and let it sit for 3 days before paint. Infact im getting ready to head out and spray some regular 2k on some tailgates in about an hour.

Also I try not to use primer where filler should be used.
 
I had jobs years ago that often looked good till a year later then the shrinkage showed, it wasn't a sandscratch problem because the body work was always finished to 180 or finer, these were jobs where I'd shoot three coats of NCP or K36 or K38, then block with 220 and repeat till straight, final prime and finish sand with 600-they'd be straight as an arrow for the first summer but a year later you could see areas of shrink. I use polyester primer now for the major blocking and finish with epoxy or turbo and find it perfectly stable, 8 years so far on the first one I did with poly and it still looks like day one.
 
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