1969 Chevy C10

Not everyone is careful with their vehicles - this is one that has seen some abuse for sure. Probably would have been money ahead to buy a new bed, depending on what the plans are for it. We bought a an original shortbed assembly (converted the truck to shortbed) instead of a reproduction bed and I knew it would be a good experiment to compare a reproduction to restoring an original and I've concluded that reproduction is still the way to go, even with all the test fitting and modifications necessary to make the reproduction panels fit together. The time and money it has taken to strip the panels and straighten them is pretty extensive.
 
Actually I priced the replacement bed and it is cheaper for me to straighten the dents out. It isn't going to be a show truck, that's for sure.
He actually thought about just having it clear coated for a patina look. So If I can get it fairly straight it will look much better than that.
 
'68 Coronet R/T said:
Actually I priced the replacement bed and it is cheaper for me to straighten the dents out. It isn't going to be a show truck, that's for sure.
He actually thought about just having it clear coated for a patina look. So If I can get it fairly straight it will look much better than that.
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If you're keeping the patina or building a low budget truck, then yeah it's definitely cheaper. Somedays I wish I would have went that route with mine... The route I went on my 68 was a reproduction bed assembly and with our 69 it's stripping the factory bed to bare metal, epoxy, filler, 2K, base, clear so it adds up quick.
 
Got the rip in the top portion of the bed welded up.
Bed Top left rip welded.JPG


That was the easy part. The lower bed behind the wheel is in rough shape. Severely dented in the front and the rear which is what caused the rip in the metal by the tail light.
Bed Left lower rear dents.JPG


After some work I got it fairly straighten out. I already closed up the gaps at the flange area, just didn't take another picture.
Bed Left lower rear dents progress.JPG


I had to remove the tailgate in order to weld the rip next to the tail light. Required using some small pieces of brake line to fill the flange area behind the metal so I could clamp in place with vise grips.
Still need to fill the small gap with some weld.
Tail light Left side rip welded.JPG


The punctured metal at the top of the tail light area was a nightmare. Got it close enough to finish shaping with filler when I get to that stage.
Tail light Left side dented metal progress.JPG


Once the weather gets a little better, I will media blast these panels get them covered in epoxy.
 
Dismantled the driver's door thinking I was going to replace a small rusted portion.
As I removed the glass and hardware I discovered this rattling around in there:
Crowbar in Door.JPG


While removing the Vent window assembly I noticed the whole top of the door was loose and could be moved back and forth. The metal is cracked at the front and rear of the door.
Metal ripped and frame loose.JPG

Metal ripped and window frame loose front.JPG


Add to that the cross brace is separated from the outer door skin.
Cracked at Cross brace.JPG


And then there is the rusted area I started out to repair:
Bottom Front Rust.JPG


Any thoughts on whether this can be repaired or if it should be replaced? A door shell from AMD is $430 shipped.
 
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I would rather fix that door twice than use another aftermarket door for those trucks. The last one I did I had to drill the window frame out and lower it 3/8" to fit the hole, and that was just the beginning of the nightmare. Maybe I just got a bad one, but the other side had a different set of issues, equally as bad. Maybe find a used one that is cleaner, but most I have seen have similar issues to yours.
 
I know one guy on the 67-72 forum that bought replacement doors and didn't have any issues. I installed new outer skins on mine and they fit pretty well. I haven't seen issues like that on a door though. You seem to be pretty skilled with metalworking so you can probably tackle it based on your client's desired final results, but will the labor be more costly than a door?
 
Attacked the door today and got the three cracks welded up.
Rear Welded.JPG


Sorry the next picture is a bit out of focus.
Cross Brace Welded.JPG


This one gave me the most grief as the metal was very thin.
Front Welded.JPG


Going to take some time to replace the sheet metal on the lower corner. I will have to think it through carefully since my metal shaping capabilities are limited.
 
texasking said:
I would rather fix that door twice than use another aftermarket door for those trucks. The last one I did I had to drill the window frame out and lower it 3/8" to fit the hole, and that was just the beginning of the nightmare. Maybe I just got a bad one, but the other side had a different set of issues, equally as bad. Maybe find a used one that is cleaner, but most I have seen have similar issues to yours.
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I have a 1967 C10 with a horrible tailgate. Being 300 North of LMC, I order the “GM Authorized Reproduction” tail gate. It had no visible damage yet bowed in about the handle 1/4” for well over a foot and a couple of dings (Normal +) but once hung on tight trunnions, the right side upper stuck out almost 3/1/6”. I took my large micrometer and found it 0.105” thicker and tapered of to same as the other side. Considering the tail light stamping was OEM, I have no recourse but to spent another 12-16 hours of serious measurement, cutting and welding more metal. Sad! And the passengers side was the best. Just forget to use a non-hardening wax rust sealant with a rust inhibitor. 3M is the only on the list it on SDS.
 
I have a 1967 C10 with a horrible tailgate. Being 300 North of LMC, I order the “GM Authorized Reproduction” tail gate. It had no visible damage yet bowed in about the handle 1/4” for well over a foot and a couple of dings (Normal +) but once hung on tight trunnions, the right side upper stuck out almost 3/1/6”. I took my large micrometer and found it 0.105” thicker and tapered of to same as the other side. Considering the tail light stamping was OEM, I have no recourse but to spent another 12-16 hours of serious measurement, cutting and welding more metal. Sad! And the passengers side was the best. Just forget to use a non-hardening wax rust sealant with a rust inhibitor. 3M is the only on the list it on SDS.
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Thanks, that is good to know. The tailgate on this truck is hammered like everything else.
Got epoxy primer on the outside of the door:
Epoxy Primer.JPG
 
Looks good! We built some door stands that bolt to the hinge locations, helps to be able to prime or even paint the doors inside and out in one go, if you like that kind of thing.
 
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