1963 Dodge Dart for the Wife....

Chris_Hamilton said:
IMO tack coat and mist coats are not relevant to modern basecoat systems. Pay attention to what TexasKing said in his post (#278). Misting the base on isn't the answer nor is holding the gun farther away, they will just cause new issues like excess texture in the basecoat which will show when cleared. Your issue is what Texas stated along with overlap and coverage. Keep the gun head horizontal to the surface. Keep the gun perpendicular (right angle) to the surface. Don't tilt the gun. Dial back your fluid a bit when you do the trunk again. Tighten up your overlap to closer to 75%. Don't tilt the gun. Spray medium coats, don't try to spray too heavy. Some metallics take four, even five coats (medium) to get coverage. If you are still having issues you can get "blender" at any jobber or through SPI (Intercoat clear). On your last one or two coats reduce your RTS base 1:1 with blender. That along with more overlap and keeping the gun oriented correctly will solve it.

It's looking really good Jim, doing a great job.:)
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Chris, you're saying to reduce the base with intercoat instead of reducer? I haven't used Intercoat, it must be very thin?
 
Jim, I have a question. You said you were going to do heavy coats of clear on the final round. Wouldn't that lead to urethane wave and slower drying? Why not do more medium coats?
 
AAE said:
Jim, I have a question. You said you were going to do heavy coats of clear on the final round. Wouldn't that lead to urethane wave and slower drying? Why not do more medium coats?
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Well since I suck at painting it will be what ever it ends up and I will recover from it somehow :)
 
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Recovering from the mess up last week was a bigger nightmare than I expected.... Wet sanded the 2 coats this morning but man it was tough getting so I could not see the clear sand throughs from 3 days ago.... I am there though.... also painted the aqua for the interior so now it is just clear time in the morning.. I need a lot of prayers tonight.....

Look the big movie star has seen the light of day for the first time since the My Classic Car recording in January.... she is disgusting filthy.....


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Oh and I read and reread the gun adjustment pages on Barry's site as well as googled how these guns actually worked. I setup the gun correctly today.... It made a difference :)
 
texasking said:
Reduce intercoat 1:1, then add to reduced base. This should only be needed if you are having trouble getting the metallic to orient correctly. Oh, and add hardener to intercoat the same ratio as base.
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@texasking it is not really a metallic problem I'm having (other than the striping). I ended up sanding through the 1 coat of clear I had on it in a few places and man that Motobase did NOT want to cover those spots. It ended up crackling in those areas much like the Duster did. It has been a day with super accurate wet sanding to get the crackling sanded down then very careful shooting or it would do it again.... I did the 90 degree shoot to the trunk and that fixed striping problem (likely it was proper gun setup and carefully keeping it 90 degrees to the surface was the real reason it is better). It was a long day but it is looking really good. Now I just need to take my time and not F up the clear........
 
If this is wrong advice please speak up, its too late for me but may save someone else.....

The first time I ever did this was traumatic but I get it now. The clear will easily fill these scratches so never fear....

_Lightly_ scuff the finish with a red scotch bright (~400 grit). Notice how the junk just jumps out at you... spray on some SPI 710 W&G remover and gently sand it out with 800. Depending on what it is you may not get it all out. I will pick at it with a fingernail and if it comes out that is great. It leave a depression but there is base under it and the next 4 coats will fill it up and you will never know it was there.

Dry you would flip out looking at it but the W&G remover mimics more clear and with that film on it filling the scratches it looks perfect, if you don't sand through.... sand through the clear and your life can become miserable. SPI solid base easy, spray on some more to blend it and done. This Motobase metallic.... way more problematic....

She is all done ready to get slammed with 2-3 coats in the morning before work. Then the real sanding will commence.

Professionals: If this is wrong advice please speak up, its too late for me but may save someone else.....

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Jim, a wise man on here once said "results are what matter". There is no bad advice there because that is what works for you. One thing I like about this forum is all the different ways of doing things. I have been painting for a long time, and I read about procedures all the time that I had never even thought of, your scotch brite procedure being one of them. It makes perfect sense to keep from breaking through, and the clear will have no problem filling those scratches. I usually block with 400, but getting wave out now or after final coats really doesn't matter. I just had to get it out twice because I screwed up my flow coats, but that is a different story. You are getting it done, and will be enjoying it far sooner than most would with a project of this size. That says a lot.
 
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