that is excellent advice that i will be doing, thanksMy advice, not knowing how much spraying experience you have and since you plan to do parts individually, is pick the easiest part to sand to paint first. The amount of sanding is going to be based on the amount of orange peel you end up with and I am pretty sure knowing when to stop and sand is more important than sanding. If you have peel in your first coat, I am not sure its right to spray 2 more coats being that the paint will not fill, just continue on the high and low spots and loading up coats is not going to make sanding with 800 too much fun. It will get your technique down and reducer and pressures dialed in for your personal spraying.
Of course, if you can spray to gloss with no peel at all, then its going to be easier.
I have seen some car shows where the peel was just awful and they dont show you the days of cutting and buffing before its done. You are already starting with a color that is going to show every flaw, every defect with black. When my son was getting close to painting the Camaro, we stuck a jeep in so he could paint something before needing to be perfect. Getting some thin metal to practice on might save hours if not days. I say thin metal because cardboard soaks in paint so you wont see runs, and metal you can put over the edge of a table and bend and edge on it like the fender will be.
thanks my brother, seems that we think along the same lines. I'll will start epoxy/ high build primer/sanding here in november and probably start spraying around april. If you start before , let me know how it goes. if not then I'll let you know of the issues I stumbled acrossSlammed, I also decided on SS black for my 57 pickup (Bigglass on the truck forum). I'm following Shine's advice. Hopefully I will be laying it down by the end of this month. I'll keep you posted..
Thanks.ppg concept
No. It’s that old blue I think is typically associated with Ford. For a 72 F100...Is the Ford Bahama Blue metallic or not?
ThanksKnowing for sure it is non metallic, I would do whatever you personally preferred. The only real advantage I see to base/clear is the easier touch up and blending. Blending, however, is probably not something you will need to do.
John
I do the 5 coats back to back with 30 minutes between them. Used to do 4 and never rubbed through but I started to do another coat when I started cutting with 600 or 800 instead of the 1000 with long boards.
I like the concept of setting up and spraying once instead of sanding, re masking, and respraying again. If I get 5 nice coats I'm out of there. It's not better, it's just easier on my shoulders. I feel that I can work the paint just as flat.
It's hard to beat the look of SPI single stage. This caddy probably has 15k miles on it and last time I saw the car it didn't have any chips on the front of that hood. It's more durable than base clear. For me it's more work to cut and buff than clear but the positives out weigh the easier clear.
I will say this about SS jobs versus BC/CC if you are not spraying in a booth. BC/CC is going to be a lot more forgiving if you get trash or bugs in the base versus the first coat of SS. Clear it's about the same but still a little easier to repair. If you are painting in a booth then SS for black would be the way to go but if not I'd go BC/CC just for the ability to repair any hiccups.
anything in the clear will show up on the black including peel in the base or scratches . unless i'm using pearls or doing something custom i will never clear black . in time it will haze over .