hmm. Any other suggestions for heater channels? Its an area prone to rust from temp fluctuation and condensation.I don't think you can put anything in there. First it will all melt out as it is actual wax. Plus the smell inside the car as it does that will make it undrivable.
Is it on a rotisserie? I poured epoxy in my doors then rolled them around until epoxy oozed everywhere.hmm. Any other suggestions for heater channels? Its an area prone to rust from temp fluctuation and condensation.
Is it on a rotisserie? I poured epoxy in my doors then rolled them around until epoxy oozed everywhere.
Nope and all paint is complete. I can still hit the doors with cavity wax, and did get down on the seam the best I could with a paint brush when epoxying before paint but the heater channels have had nothing done to the inside.
That's an idea. I think i will push a borescope in there and see what things actually look like first.What about Hi Temp exhaust paint? It could be sprayed with a wand on an aerosol can.
Epoxy, if that gets over 400 degs it won't matter what happens to the epoxy.hmm. Any other suggestions for heater channels? It's an area prone to rust from temp fluctuation and condensation.
Getting it inside a closed tube is the problem though.Epoxy, if that gets over 400 degs it won't matter what happens to the epoxy.
I like to take the doors off and tape all the openings except one, which is for pouring epoxy in. Reducing is better, but on this tail gate I used a quart of full strength SPI epoxy and just rolled it around in every angle. It gets in behind everything, seals the seam, and its all thats needed.My application will be on the inside of the heater channels on a VW bug if that makes a difference in recommendation. It will get hot and ooze profusely I anticipate. Also planning to treat the bottom of doors and the rear side of the A and B pillar
Did it take a whole quart of epoxy doing that way? Or did you pour out the excess?I like to take the doors off and tape all the openings except one, which is for pouring epoxy in. Reducing is better, but on this tail gate I used a quart of full strength SPI epoxy and just rolled it around in every angle. It gets in behind everything, seals the seam, and its all thats needed.
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im just figuring out your a vendor....im slow lol. you have a website? there are always odds and ends we need that Barry dont carry.Getting it inside a closed tube is the problem though.
Did it take a whole quart of epoxy doing that way? Or did you pour out the excess?
I would like to do my doors with that method but have no idea how much it would take.
Heater channels on that run up the sides of the bug front to rear. Without a wand to snake in there inst a real good way to coat, unless you can roll the whole body around, which would require a rotisserie and be done before paint. They are the section where the red flow arrows are and they are welded to the body as part of the rigid structureOk I thought it was a heater tube.
No website, I deal mainly with my local customers (SW Wisconsin area) I am a one man operation and deliver all my own parts and supplies. I can ship items if you have no local source, but am not looking to get into that as a regular thing. I am busy enough now as it is. I stock most of the same things as Keystone (hoods, fenders, lights, bumpers ect.) as well as Key Parts rust repair panels, and a wide range of paint supplies (SPI, 3M, SEM, Evercoat, SATA ect.) Oh, and I also have thousands of boxes of AuVeCo fasteners in stock.im just figuring out your a vendor....im slow lol. you have a website? there are always odds and ends we need that Barry dont carry.