coming off in sheets

ok, on stripping paint with a razor blade. you cant do it without heat ! those paint chips cause grief for weeks . especially if you get them in your eyes . eyewear does no good . use a heat gun and get it off in big strips . i pull 2ft pieces off . once you get the hang of it things go pretty well. beats hell out of grinding and sanding .
 
Chris_Hamilton said:
I'll be the contrarian here. I still love sports. Watching UVA win the NCAA Tourney in 2019 was incredible. Right up there with there with the RedSox coming back and beating the Yankees in the 2004 ALCS. NFL is still compelling and exciting to me. Formula One was incredible last year. The UFC is great to watch as well although I don't pay for the PPV'S.
I'm not going to apologize for still loving sports. One of the few ways I have to escape all the crap of life.
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I love baseball , but this recent lock our kind of rubbed me wrong. Here we are paying 4 bucks a gallon, can't get a meal at burger King for under 9 dollars, bacon is up to 8 dollars a pound, and these guys are arguing over 600k vs 700k a year to play a game (base salary). Don't get me started in the pitchers who make 35 million a year....when u really break it down. Its over 10k per pitch, whether they throw a ball or a strike...

Sorry for the rant .
 
El Toro said:
Shine will the heat gun deal work on stripping an original lacquer finish say on a 50's GM ?
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I'm about 90% done with stripping a lacquer job I sprayed 40 years ago. Tried the plastic razor blades but had too much problem with the paint sticking to the blade, so I went back to standard blades. Coulda been just my technique was wrong with the plastic blades.

I started with a $10 HF heat gun that I'd had for years, and it worked okay. Then the gun's switch died, so I got a new gun from the local Ace Hardware for about $40. It has adjustable heat as well as a couple different fan speeds, and the job went twice as fast with the new gun.

One thing I've found that seems to help with the steel blades is to run the edge across a sharpening stone to just slightly dull it and to stone the corners just a bit to soften the dead sharp corners just a bit. The blade is still deadly weapon sharp, but the stoning seems to greatly reduce the tendency to snag and break a piece out of the edge, and it still peels the paint as good as ever.
 
i basically use the blade to get it started . i peel large pieces off to limit any damage to the surface since i'm repainting the 56 . door jambs are better peeled otherwise you have to sand them for days . i stated doing this in the 70's on vettes because i hate chem strip and no one could blast them back then.
 
I felt your pain last winter. Here's what happened when I went to do a quick scuff and shoot. Had some small repairs to do and I found Bondo on top of lacquer primer. My quickie paint job didn't end up so quick.
I used my propane torch and sharp putty knife with rounded corners.

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finished the fenders today . shows peeling in big sheets and first pic is using an air blower with heat . sometimes a blower will pop up a huge piece .
 

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Dang Shine, even in the engine bay! At least you got large chunks coming off and not much damage to the substrate. I wouldn't wish this on my worst enemy.
 
well next week i should be close to color . lot of little areas to finish. this thing has been a nightmare . besides all the labor . i have thousands in materials and replacing rubber seals and such . if i count labor prosray has cost me close to 10k .
this is why we try to use the best . it's why we run backwards from 2nd and third line junk, especially the relabeled crap.
 
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