gun designations

T

Treeslayer

Mike
eh, this will likely sound silly to most, but i have been looking at guns, specifically iwata and devilbiss lower priced guns. i am a bit surprised at some low prices.
my confusion is why there are so many different models seemingly with the same tip size. the model names mean absolutely nothing to me.
i just looked through an older sale thread here, and a man said he preferred a faster gun and got rid of one because he didnt get a long with it, it was too slow for him and he couldnt get himself to slow down that much. this does make some sense to me, but how in the world would a guy like me know what to get? its not like they advertise the gun is fast or slow..........?????? for instance i believe the gun he liked, he said was replaced by one called a kiwana? or some such? how would one with out knowing the vernacular, understand what he is looking at?
 
A few of the main distinctions are RP (regular pressure) & HVLP (high volume low pressure). Also I and O spray pattern. The RP will generally be less efficient then a HVLP, meaning more overspray, HVLP are required in many areas for EPA regs. The "I" pattern is primarily used as a base coat gun, and the "O" pattern as a clear coat gun. Then the tip size of each gun regulates the amount of paint that can be delivered at wide open trigger. You combine these elements together to get an almost endless variation from one gun to the next.

The quality of the design and precision of manufacturing also makes a big difference. Then there is the infinite combinations of products & viscosities of each. I use a Iwata LPH400 with 1.3 tip for base and clear and am able to adjust the trigger to shoot both just fine. I just do weekend projects and get by with it just fine. If you are going to be spraying every day at a shop, then a dedicated gun for base and one for clear is the way to go.
 
Generally speaking SATA spray guns will require you to move along a bit more quickly. This is why they are a favorite of professional painters.
The Iwata LPH400 that I use is a LVLP which means Low air Volume and Low Pressure. Other guns are HVLP, thus High air Volume and Low Pressure. RP which Reduced Pressure etc.

The Iwata LPH400 Silver Cap 1.4 tip is my favorite because it requires a slow steady hand. The gun tip is about 4" from the surface when spraying and the fan only about 8" in length, so a 50% overlap works great.

I also have a Tekna Copper which is an HVLP and has a much bigger fan and requires me to adjust my spraying technique.
 
RenewAP said:
A few of the main distinctions are RP (regular pressure) & HVLP (high volume low pressure). Also I and O spray pattern. The RP will generally be less efficient then a HVLP, meaning more overspray, HVLP are required in many areas for EPA regs. The "I" pattern is primarily used as a base coat gun, and the "O" pattern as a clear coat gun. Then the tip size of each gun regulates the amount of paint that can be delivered at wide open trigger. You combine these elements together to get an almost endless variation from one gun to the next.

The quality of the design and precision of manufacturing also makes a big difference. Then there is the infinite combinations of products & viscosities of each. I use a Iwata LPH400 with 1.3 tip for base and clear and am able to adjust the trigger to shoot both just fine. I just do weekend projects and get by with it just fine. If you are going to be spraying every day at a shop, then a dedicated gun for base and one for clear is the way to go.
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so then RP is a conventional gun. thank you, that makes sense to me. i do tend to go fast, probably a carry over from years ago when all i had was a pressure feed gun. i still am not exactly sold on hvlp. i realize they do save expensive product, but not if i screw it up and have to shoot it again.
i did not realize there were different patterns..........that gives me a whole new problem to think about. what i do know is that the starting line i have been using is due to be replaced, so trying to think ahead and do not want another of those.
 
'68 Coronet R/T said:
Generally speaking SATA spray guns will require you to move along a bit more quickly. This is why they are a favorite of professional painters.
The Iwata LPH400 that I use is a LVLP which means Low air Volume and Low Pressure. Other guns are HVLP, thus High air Volume and Low Pressure. RP which Reduced Pressure etc.

The Iwata LPH400 Silver Cap 1.4 tip is my favorite because it requires a slow steady hand. The gun tip is about 4" from the surface when spraying and the fan only about 8" in length, so a 50% overlap works great.

I also have a Tekna Copper which is an HVLP and has a much bigger fan and requires me to adjust my spraying technique.
Click to expand...
i just cant justify the cost of a sata for no more than im gonna use it. probably not an iwata 400 either. i do see a few more reasonably priced iwata guns though. i some what like the idea of a faster gun, i think that would suit me and my style better. i may study RP guns some more. i wondered why i didnt see any conventional guns, i figured they were outlawed but it seems its just a change in terminology. in any event, i would like to get better quality than what i have used, but not spend 5-600 bucks. there should be a compromise. looks like iwata are all made in japan? japan is usually great quality, i run japan made bars on my chainsaws and wish they made chain.
 
also RT, an 8" fan at 4" from the panel.......i am never gonna get the hang of that lol. i would like more along the lines of 8" from the panel and a 12" fan. having said that, the starting line is kinda crappy but i have compensated and got the epoxy to lay out really nice with it. my fear is any new gun will mean re learning.
 
Just to be clear the RP with Sata RP's stands for "reduced pressure". Meaning it is compliant in regulated areas but is not an HVLP.

@Treeslayer Get a good gun. Use and then sell it on a forum or Ebay. On Ebay it will bring 75% or so of the cost if it looks good. Far better idea than mucking around with an economy gun.

Spraygunsdirect is the best place to get a gun nowadays. It's in the UK but shipping is fast and cheap, and they have the best prices on all guns.
 
Chris_Hamilton said:
Just to be clear the RP with Sata RP's stands for "reduced pressure". Meaning it is compliant in regulated areas but is not an HVLP.

@Treeslayer Get a good gun. Use and then sell it on a forum or Ebay. On Ebay it will bring 75% or so of the cost if it looks good. Far better idea than mucking around with an economy gun.

Spraygunsdirect is the best place to get a gun nowadays. It's in the UK but shipping is fast and cheap, and they have the best prices on all guns.
Click to expand...
Chris i still dont know what i want even if i was gonna spend a grand lol. so the RP is not really conventional, but not hvlp either. got it.
ps, hope you aint been in the shop working today, its hot hot hot.
 
RenewAP said:
A few of the main distinctions are RP (regular pressure) & HVLP (high volume low pressure). Also I and O spray pattern. The RP will generally be less efficient then a HVLP, meaning more overspray, HVLP are required in many areas for EPA regs. The "I" pattern is primarily used as a base coat gun, and the "O" pattern as a clear coat gun. Then the tip size of each gun regulates the amount of paint that can be delivered at wide open trigger. You combine these elements together to get an almost endless variation from one gun to the next.

The quality of the design and precision of manufacturing also makes a big difference. Then there is the infinite combinations of products & viscosities of each. I use a Iwata LPH400 with 1.3 tip for base and clear and am able to adjust the trigger to shoot both just fine. I just do weekend projects and get by with it just fine. If you are going to be spraying every day at a shop, then a dedicated gun for base and one for clear is the way to go.
Click to expand...

That is a good explanation, enjoyed the read.
 
Chris_Hamilton said:
Just to be clear the RP with Sata RP's stands for "reduced pressure". Meaning it is compliant in regulated areas but is not an HVLP.

@Treeslayer Get a good gun. Use and then sell it on a forum or Ebay. On Ebay it will bring 75% or so of the cost if it looks good. Far better idea than mucking around with an economy gun.

Spraygunsdirect is the best place to get a gun nowadays. It's in the UK but shipping is fast and cheap, and they have the best prices on all guns.
Click to expand...

I have bought used guns from eBay in the past, a SATA 2000 and the Iwata LPH400 I still have. Paid right at $200 for each and then thoroughly cleaned them and installed factory rebuild kits (seals mainly).

Recently bought my Air Gunsa AZ3 HTE2 2.0 primer gun from Spraygunsdirect and was very satisfied with the pricing and quick shipping.

Chris, is right about getting a good spray gun. Think of the cost of your materials, do you want to risk having to buy them twice because your paint job turned out bad?

Another thing about the cheaper spray guns is the low quality. There is a reason they can sell them so cheap, the materials they use and the machining specification standards are very low, if they exist at all.
 
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'68 Coronet R/T said:
I have bought used guns from eBay in the past, a SATA 2000 and the Iwata LPH400 I still have. Paid right at $200 for each and then thoroughly cleaned them and installed factory rebuild kits (seals mainly).

Recently bought my Air Gunsa AZ3 HTE2 2.0 primer gun from Spraygunsdirect and was very satisfied with the pricing and quick shipping.

Chris, is right about getting a good spray gun. Think of the cost of your materials, do you want to risk having to buy them twice because your paint job turned out bad?

Another thing about the cheaper spray guns is the low quality. There is a reason they can sell them so cheap, the materials they use and the machining specification standards are very low, if they exist at all.
Click to expand...
quality is an issue RT. i found that out with the starting line jamb gun. it is leaking air and i havnt really used it much. have used the full size a lot more..........but i dont trust it, it could develop a problem at any time now. i must say a new air gunsa has a very attractive price, even though a few guys have expressed that they dont feel it is ideal. there are other iwata guns in that price range also. i know most of you recommend the 400, its just a bit pricey new for me. but i am going to read up on some of the other iwatas. i didnt know they are all made in japan. that is impressive.
 
Your starting line doesn’t even belong in this conversation lol. The close distance of the LPH is actually really nice. Because it’s a lot easier to be consistent with that distance than 8” from the panel. Not to mention the LPH is so light and feels like almost nothing in your hand.

I still do a 75% overlap with the LPH about 4” from the panel and I just move faster. But it lays down a lot slicker that way.
 
Treeslayer said:
i just cant justify the cost of a sata for no more than im gonna use it. probably not an iwata 400 either. i do see a few more reasonably priced iwata guns though. i some what like the idea of a faster gun, i think that would suit me and my style better. i may study RP guns some more. i wondered why i didnt see any conventional guns, i figured they were outlawed but it seems its just a change in terminology. in any event, i would like to get better quality than what i have used, but not spend 5-600 bucks. there should be a compromise. looks like iwata are all made in japan? japan is usually great quality, i run japan made bars on my chainsaws and wish they made chain.
Click to expand...
Mike,
What is the best chain saw chain sharpener?
All I use now is a file and going through to many chains, so not doing it right.
Thanks
Barry
 
Do any of these spark an interest?
PXL_20240706_124426876~2.jpgPXL_20240706_124604165~2.jpgPXL_20240706_124723312~2.jpg
 
Barry said:
Mike,
What is the best chain saw chain sharpener?
All I use now is a file and going through to many chains, so not doing it right.
Thanks
Barry
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Barry, i assume you are using round ground chain? i still use a file for the free hand, and if you are going through chains, filing them away, you are doing it correct sir. i mainly run square chain and have gotten a square grinder in recent years since my sight aint what it used to be and keeping the corner of a tiny file in the corner of a small cutter is now a challenge. you cant make a chain sharp with out removing material.
i suspect you are giving me an analogy, point taken sir.

PS, if indeed any one would like chain filing advice, it is the least i can do for you all. feel free to ask or message since this is after all a paint forum lol.
 
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I have a mate to #2. I use it for almost everything. Is yours for sale? Price?
 
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