gun designations

Barry said:
Thank you, sir. I'm careful to get the proper angle, but I have to keep a new backup chain at all times.
I had to ask.
Thanks
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Hi Barry,
Speaking as a redneck who owns 5 chain saws but only one of them works and having practiced a lot thru numerous hurricanes in south Louisiana I have landed on using an Oregon chain saw file guide. Like everything the more you do it, the better you get. Oak is tough on chains so you need to sharpen more often. A fresh chain cuts in little chips, when you get fine dust, it is time to resharpen. I sharpen with the chain on the bar, one side complete ant then the opposite side complete, liquid paper is useful to mark the starting point. Hope this helps. BTW, Stihl chain saw files are the best. (apologies as I know this is paint forum, but I could not resist, LOL's!)
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20mercury said:
Hi Barry,
Speaking as a redneck who owns 5 chain saws but only one of them works and having practiced a lot thru numerous hurricanes in south Louisiana I have landed on using an Oregon chain saw file guide. Like everything the more you do it, the better you get. Oak is tough on chains so you need to sharpen more often. A fresh chain cuts in little chips, when you get fine dust, it is time to resharpen. I sharpen with the chain on the bar, one side complete ant then the opposite side complete, liquid paper is useful to mark the starting point. Hope this helps. BTW, Stihl chain saw files are the best. (apologies as I know this is paint forum, but I could not resist, LOL's!)
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Only 5 saws? I can’t remember the last time I had less than 15 or 20! It’s a disease!! Haha
 
These were the sharpeners I was referring to. They’re identical Pferd makes them for Stihl just in the creamsicle color. Just make sure it’s genuine as like anything these days there’s some knock offs floating around and I can’t vouch for the quality of them.
 

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I bought this 3 years ago and very happy with it.
Takes 5 minutes to correctly and accurately sharpen a chain.
Also bought a gauge to carefully and safely cut down the rakers for a better cut.
I have a Stihl Farmboss and when the chain is set up correctly it cuts like butter, the chips just boil off the log.


I use a hand file to dress the chain 2 or 3 times between removing and sharpening the chain.
 
Dean Jenkins said:
And only ethanol free fuel. Ethanol (moisture) will kill a small carburetor in short order.
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yes. most of you will have your saws sit for months. i usually do run regular gas, but im going through 3-5 gallons a week. saws not in rotation get the fuel dumped. i also run old fashioned stihl orange bottle dino oil at 32-1. never had a problem with this mix. did have trouble with stihl ultra at the same mix. i know, but yes. your mileage may vary, i can only relate my experience.
 
Yep I’m e-free in all my small engine. The ones that may sit for extended periods get 100ll. That stuff has an insane shelf life. But not everyone is lucky enough to have a small airport near by. Or e-free for that matter.
 
to get back to paint guns.....without causing any arguments, id like to talk about hvlp vs conventional again. the reason why im hung up on this is because i believe i am compensating. what i mean is i think im running an hvlp like i would a conventional. i always seem to get better results with higher pressure and fluid, which is the reason they came out with hvlp? granted i have a cheap starting line hvlp gun, so am i over coming it's shortcomings? really id like to understand the mechanical differences between the two types. i dont want to argue which is better, or this brand is batter than that, i really just want to understand the mechanical difference. there has to be one? at some point, probably once i get a new good gun, ill blow apart one of each to try and find differences.
 
Most tend to gravitate toward hvlp for basecoat and “conventional” for clear. Conventional seems to break up the solids better. But honestly you can get good results with either or for base & clear with a quality gun and quality materials. I know some guys that prefer hvlp for everything…and others that use a RP for everything. Everyone has a different style, environment, products, etc. No need to over think it. Get a quality gun and quality materials and learn them. Remember, even the best of us still have bad days.
 
Whitesnake said:
Yes I’ve had a handful of his saws. Great guy great work. MS460 I had of his was an animal.
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yeah, he did my 064 i told him it would be occasional use. lol, yeah that things a monster and i cant hardly help but use it. it is what i remember dads saws to be, cant stop it.
 
Whitesnake said:
Most tend to gravitate toward hvlp for basecoat and “conventional” for clear. Conventional seems to break up the solids better. But honestly you can get good results with either or for base & clear with a quality gun and quality materials. I know some guys that prefer hvlp for everything…and others that use a RP for everything. Everyone has a different style, environment, products, etc. No need to over think it. Get a quality gun and quality materials and learn them. Remember, even the best of us still have bad days.
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im running the hvlp up 35 psi and a little more some times. if the gauge is to be believed. i also tend to run fluid pretty open though im trying to not do that...........i seem to get awful texture with low pressure and low fluid. so, im kinda running like an old school gun. hence why i would like to understand the differences mechanically.
 
Whitesnake said:
I think some of that may be your gun. And your air supply also plays a role. And gauges have been known to be faulty.
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that is a very good possibility. i have a suspicion that a cheaper hvlp is not a lot different than a conventional gun, however a good quality gun likely is.
 
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