New SATA 5000

They are non digital so the next choice is air regulator. Another RTI? I prefer diaphragm to pinch valves. If a Sata was digital how does it regulate inlet pressure? Or does the digital display in the handle just show inlet pressure? How do those Sata Adam units work? I've seen digital Sata guns with that Adam unit also on the back of the air knob. Where do you put the paint in? (LOL) Never operated a Sata so a lot of questions.
 
The digital really is just an inlet pressure indicator. The adam is just to make a non digital... Well digital lol. My 4000 is digital and i have an iwata regulator. I adjust the iwata and use the guns digital display Im not understanding your question on where to put the paint lol. Same as any other gun

The way sata regulates using the digital is all math with knowing pressure drops with length and diameter of air hose.

So if your wall regulator is at 150 psi and you have 25ft of air hose with a 1/2" inside diameter and you set your gun to 25psi thats how they do it

*that was just an example it is by no means accurate on my part lol*
 
I suspected the digital was just an indicator. Just one more thing that would have needed batteries. I have a Iwata regulator kicking around here but it's just a cheater valve. I have 2 Geo guns and their regulators are also non diaphragm cheaters, they work but do drift and have to keep on them. I keep the wall regulator as high as I can as per Barry recommends, and regulate at the gun. That's new to me after decades of using the wall regulator only (no gun regulator), later with regulators at the gun and 10-20 psi at the wall over what the gun required.
I have a few guns with diaphragm regulators, one is the RTI, I like the range, 0-60 and the gauge has a glass face.
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So from you described Sata recommends regulating at the wall?

I know where the paint goes...LOL and haven't had any Johnny Walker (yet)
Happy Thanksgiving!
 
Yes. Sata has an inline guage only at the gun that you adjust pressure at the wall.

And i figured lol

Happy thanksgiving!
 
We just got a new Sata 5000 RP 1.3 at my day job and I was impressed how much material (clear) the 1.3 tip put out. Shoots like my 2000 RP 1.4. I was skeptical of our Sales Guy (he's a weasel) but he was accurate about that. Maybe for overalls you would need the 1.4 but for single/multi panel work it works very well. I'm shooting 2 1/2 turns out can't imagine having the need to open it up much more.
 
I have the 5000 RP with a 1.3 but didn't get to try it yet. Glad to hear your report on the 1.3. It think the 2.5 turns out is almost wide open, I turned my needle out and back in until it contacted the trigger and it was about 2.75 from 0.
I suppose I'm still a little concerned about the 1.3 for clear. Why do you say maybe a. 1.4 would be better for a over all? Do you think the 1.4 would be faster?
 
Just a little update after further use of the 5000 RP 1.3. Got to say I really love this gun. Have only used it for clear coat (don't like to ever intermix guns and I have a 4000 1.3 and a 2000 1.3 (both hvlp models) for base. Sprayed a Nissan Sentra this week that was in the shop for a rear hit but then we had a little mishap and the ceiling caved in on the side of the shop where the car was sitting on the frame machine. damage.jpg

Anyways long story slightly less long ended up having to repair the roof, hood and dings all over. So I ended up having to shoot the entire car, the 1.3 worked great. Oh and Metalman I've turned mine down a bit now shooting 1 1/2 to 2 turns out. Plenty wet and a nice big fan. I'm gonna buy one for myself I like it so much.

The 66 Chevy did'nt fare so well. Was starting to block it but now I've got a lot more work to do. Unfortunate.
 
Wow! What caused that?!!
Thanks for the info, still haven't had the time to try the Sata. What clear, what pressure at the gun is working for you?
Hope you can save that Chevy.
 
metalman;n79309 said:
Wow! What caused that?!!
Thanks for the info, still haven't had the time to try the Sata. What clear, what pressure at the gun is working for you?
Hope you can save that Chevy.
Click to expand...

I'm gonna sound like a caveman but I don't have any air regulator on the gun (it's a non digital) I have the regulator at the wall set at about 35-40 pounds (not 100% as I can't read it too well due to overspray) and then I mike it to where I like the pattern and the feel. I don't worry as much about pressure as I do pattern and wetness. Just kinda based on experience if that makes any sense. As for the clear I've shot the PPG production clear through it as well as the Transtar Euro Classic and the Euro Classic Kwik. Still working on the owner to try some SPI.

As for the building it is a very old building (built in the late 30's) and the faux ceiling was done in the early 60's we think. Combination of storing some stuff on the ceiling and age. I was in the booth when it came down and it sounded like car hit the building and it got dark inside because of all the accumulated dust when it came down. It was a real mess to clean up. Thankfully no one got hurt.

Yeah the Chevy is gonna get fixed. Damn truck has been a thorn in my side for over a year now. Thought I was almost finished with it. Ughh.
 
WOW.. what a mess,, I really hope you can get things back in order within reason,, Things like this and anything else catastrophic like this scare me to death.
 
I'm looking hard at the Sata w/1.3 also kinda liking what I'm reading, no loaner guns out there to try. That sucks with the truck but at least you weren't working the frame machine at the time. Usually wood frame buildings and bodyshops are a no,no with Ins. Co's at least in my area anyhow. Erie did a spot evaluation inspection of our shop and told the boss to get the wood frame wall out dividing the shop and booth or he would be canceled.
 
DATEC;n79339 said:
I'm looking hard at the Sata w/1.3 also kinda liking what I'm reading, no loaner guns out there to try. That sucks with the truck but at least you weren't working the frame machine at the time. Usually wood frame buildings and bodyshops are a no,no with Ins. Co's at least in my area anyhow. Erie did a spot evaluation inspection of our shop and told the boss to get the wood frame wall out dividing the shop and booth or he would be canceled.
Click to expand...

The building is actually cement block (lot different than today's cinder block) Stuff simply kills masonry bits when you are trying to drill a hole to hang something. Amazing how they made stuff so much better years ago. It does (did?) have a finished side which was framed in. That is the side that collapsed. Funny you mention that cause Erie is who insured the building and the shop insurance and they didn't say anything out of the ordinary when they came to look at it. Guess it varies from person to person.
 
Your probably right, it might vary depending on how particular the adjuster wants to be. Good luck on the truck that bites.
 
Thank you Steve for posting this info. I was having a hard time deciding on a new clear coat gun, I was looking at the 5000 B RP and a couple of Iwata guns. The rave reviews here on this site (Including Barry) plus this smoking hot deal made it an easy choice for me.

I received mine yesterday from Italy, I scratched the codes on the box, checked the website and it's authentic.

So far I've not used it, but I thought it was kind of funny that the book for the gun, weighs more than the gun. Lol!

As far as the tip sizes and the 1.4 vs 1.3 discussion, I have something interesting to share.

Mine is a 1.3, or so it says. It looked big to me so I compared it to a couple of 1.4's I have in my shop. I used a round wooden toothpick as a go-no go gauge and compared the sata 5000 B RP 1.3 fluid nozzle with Devilbiss gravity plus 1.4 and Iwata LPH400 1.4.

The sata 1.3 is bigger than the 1,4 nozzles from devilbiss and Iwata. I'm not kidding, You can see it with your eyes, but I checked it and yes, the sata 1.3 is a larger fluid hole than other 1.4's. I don't have a 1.6 to compare to but my guess is this sata 1.3 is close to a 1.6. My guess is the 1.4 might actually be close to a 1.8.

That would explain why they are such a damn fire hose.

IMG_20160112_091143895_HDR_zpsqenmjgsg.jpg



IMG_20160112_091155707_HDR_zps9cdlaqwe.jpg
 
Checking again with a tapered round toothpick inserted in the end of both nozzles, measuring the tooth pic diameter at the face of the nozzle I get .055 for the 1.4 devilbiss which is about right for a 1.4. I get .060 for the Sata's 1.3 which is actually closer to a 1.5.


Devilbiss 1.4

IMG_20160112_102100929_HDR_zpswl6uywdt.jpg





Sata 5000 1.3


IMG_20160112_102231723_HDR_zpswe6av1t9.jpg
 
Interesting. I took a quick look at my Sata 1.3 and it visually compares to a 1.4 I have, (not Sata). I also used your toothpick idea and the Sata 1.3 does appear to be larger than a 1.3 Genesi.
I have a pile of pin gauges and may check to see if there is something in there that can be used to measure. Google a couple of conversions: 1.3MM = .05118", 1.4MM = .055118", 1.5MM = .05905", 1.6MM = .06299".
 
Right, my crude measurements here have the sata 1.3 at roughly a 1.55mm

Kind of glad I didn't order the 1.4 now. lol!
 
The smallest pin I have is .061 and it will not go in the sata 1.3, it's close but not quite. I'm fairly certain a .060 would go though.
 
The proof will be in using. Let us know what you think after using it a while. I'll post the same when I get a few rounds in with it.
 
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