New SATA 5000

I grabbed my O ring kit and found R-06 to measure .060" (as well as you can measure a rubber O ring with a dial caliper, lol)


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Pulled the needle back and slid it right in, didn't have to force it.


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I can NOT slide it into my devilbiss 1.4 or my Iwata 1.4 though.
 
metalman;n79928 said:
The proof will be in using. Let us know what you think after using it a while. I'll post the same when I get a few rounds in with it.



Right on.

One thing is for sure, I'm no longer worried about the gun being too slow for over all sprays. lol!
 
Closest thing I have is a number drill rod set (plain pins). I checked them with Mitutoyo micrometer (10th reading) and they are right on.
No. 53 = .0590" drops right in the nozzle with play. No. 52. = .0630" is a no go. There was nothing in between. At least 1.5MM+. So our results are comparable.
I'm sure there are other factors that affect the performance such as needle and air cap designs. At least we know the hole should be large enough.
This will not be a scandal like the VW diesel emission story but good to know, LOL.
 
Crafty Germans. lol!

"Professor Schmidtz, I have an idea that will make our Sata 5000 B RP 1.3 spray faster than Iwata's WS400-EVO 1.4! It's brilliant!"

Ha Ha Ha Ha! :)


Meanwhile over at Iwata:

"Sata jet make us rook ryke fool! How they make 1.3 spway so much a paint?"


LMAO!
 
you're welcome guys!

interesting discussion on the fluid tip sizes.

did you try comparing each needles profile against each of the other guns?
 
No, I didn't compare needles. Just the fluid hole size in the fluid nozzle.
 
northerndave;79943 said:
No, I didn't compare needles. Just the fluid hole size in the fluid nozzle.

I think that the needle profile plays a big part in fluid tip size design. I've seen really sharp 1.3's and really blunt 1.3's.

The depth of the needle drilling in the fluid cap and so on.

So what im thinking is even though the satas opening is bigger than what is stated at 1.3

Depending on needle profile and fluid cap it may be designed to spray like a 1.3

Or im just drunk ;)
 
I'm guessing there is no standard with calling an air cap a certain size? If that isn't what the 1.3 stands for then what does the 1.3 (or what ever size) referring too?
 
With all the talk of this gun being a hoser, how do y'all think it would do in the hands of a noob that has never sprayed clear before? How about base? At this price, I'm considering it vs. the Tekna prolite or lph400. Not being a pro, I need all the help I can get.
 
DATEC;79946 said:
I'm guessing there is no standard with calling an air cap a certain size? If that isn't what the 1.3 stands for then what does the 1.3 (or what ever size) referring too?

Idk. Im just rambling. Trying to make sense out of it myself

Altho the germans were known to do some very weird things lol

I am no way bashing german people. Im actually very intrigued by them. I once spent an hour at work talking to a 75 yr old man from germany who used to engineer the xray equipment that we have
 
MX442;n79948 said:
With all the talk of this gun being a hoser, how do y'all think it would do in the hands of a noob that has never sprayed clear before? How about base? At this price, I'm considering it vs. the Tekna prolite or lph400. Not being a pro, I need all the help I can get.

What kind of booth are you spraying in?

Not sure I would use it to spray base.

Keep in mind I am also a novice but I have an LPH400 and a Sata 3000 RP. I would recommend the Iwata for a noob.

Don
 
DATEC;n79946 said:
I'm guessing there is no standard with calling an air cap a certain size? If that isn't what the 1.3 stands for then what does the 1.3 (or what ever size) referring too?


Well, the sata caps say 1.3 on them because the cap, fluid nozzle and needle are a matched set. If you pull the cap off, the nozzle says 1.3 on it. Some guns will let you go up and down several sizes in fluid nozzle and still use the same needle and air cap.

But what I'm measuring here is the fluid nozzle hole.

I understand what Steve is saying about the needle. It is possible that the needle has a long metering draw length which actually restricts a small % even at full draw. I guess I'll take a look at that tomorrow.
 
dhutton;n79950 said:
What kind of booth are you spraying in?

Not sure I would use it to spray base.

Keep in mind I am also a novice but I have an LPH400 and a Sata 3000 RP. I would recommend the Iwata for a noob.

Don



I agree, The LPH400 in 1.4 is a moderate speed gun (in my opinion) even with the fluid wide open like I use mine. It really is what they call a "deliberate" spray speed, which I think is nice for a beginner, or for anyone really (if you have the time).

It really is a nice gun, I love mine. Such a soft smooth spray. I love my LVX (orange cap) for base. I ordered an LVB (purple) for light silvers, gold, blues etc.
 
Steves69LS3;n79945 said:
I think that the needle profile plays a big part in fluid tip size design. I've seen really sharp 1.3's and really blunt 1.3's.

The depth of the needle drilling in the fluid cap and so on.

So what im thinking is even though the satas opening is bigger than what is stated at 1.3

Depending on needle profile and fluid cap it may be designed to spray like a 1.3

Or im just drunk ;)



Hey Steve, just a quick follow up on this.

I took a look at the nozzle and needle today. The final fluid passage in the nozzle is tapered, it is at it's narrowest right at the outside face of the nozzle. It gets bigger back inside the nozzle, a gradual increase in diameter for about .140" length, then she's opens up far beyond any metering effect the needle could have. The needle is fairly blunt but it looks to have a really long range in flow control from closed to wide open. Some needle and nozzle sets on other guns are more like an on-off switch with it either being open or closed and with maybe .050" needle travel worth of actual metering ability.

I would say this sata meters fluid flow for about 80% of it's needle travel from fully seated to wide open. It looks like mine has about .200" of needle travel from seated to full draw.

.165" of it's travel puts the tip of the needle flush with the inside of the final fluid metering passage. Which at that point I would consider the gun pretty much wide open as far as fluid flow goes. The needle will travel another .035 beyond that point on a full trigger pull.

On my gun, this all equates to two full turns of effective fluid metering (from closed) I would say that anything past 2 full turns out from a seated needle probably doesn't do much. My gun actually only has another 3/4 of a turn past that point and the trigger bottoms out anyways (which is where the .035" of over travel comes into play).

I would say the inside of the nozzle is sort of a 2 stage forcing channel, the inside of the nozzle throat is around 3/8", then reduces abruptly down to about 1/4", then it does a gradual funnel down to around .095" which is where the final .140" length of fluid metering starts, then funnels even more gradually down to the .060" opening at the outside face of the nozzle. When the needle is fully seated, about .025" of the needle hangs out of the fluid nozzle face.



My thoughts are that this is a 1.5 with 1.3 printed on the nozzle.

And I can't wait to use it. Lol!

I also have the new Iwata WS400EVO on my desk, local rep just dropped it off. It has a 1.3mm Fluid nozzle on it, which measures an honest 1.3.

Lol!
 
well, I can do a W.O.T. timed flow of the same material this gun vs a couple of 1.4 guns. No air, just gravity flow, 10 oz or something....

lol
 
Here ya go.

10 oz medium urethane reducer.

Open top gravity cups on both guns, no bags, no liners, no filters.

Wide open triggers on both guns, stopwatch timed.

Devilbiss gravity plus 1.4 flowed 10 oz in 2 minutes 12.47 seconds

Sata 5000 B RP 1.3 flowed 10 oz in 1 minute 54.69 seconds

:)
 
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