Newbie with questions

jzhinton

Promoted Users
I was over on the forums at autobody101 with some questions. They helped me a lot but then quit replying tomy thread. I have a 2007 Tiffin RV with serious clearcoat peeling. I had a low bid ofover 23K to fix the problem. I really can't afford that so will try to learn a new trade. My current project is to repaint the endcap as seen in the photo. Really hoping to get some answers to these questions:

So everything is sanded to 180 and has been blocked. Which brings up many questions.

Before priming do I need wash it down and light wet sand with 600 grit to remove dust from surface.

If so I would do my masking next.

Now what primer/activator should I on this fiberglass endcap? I thinking 2 wet coats of high build primer before base coat, right? Flash times about 15 minutes?

I read that I need to use 1.6 to 1.8 best tip for primer/surfacer, 2.0 tip poly surfacer, correct?

I have boaght a Respirator (charcoal), eye protection and paint suit.

Then I need to wait 1 day to dry before block sanding (using guide coat) with 320 grit?

Wet or dry sand using 320, 400 & 600 grit to smooth paint runs or drips smooth to the
surface.

Then wet sand with 800 grit for metallic paints? Or is it best to use sealer coat w/ metallics? Ifso, which sealer.

If I make it thru this I will have more questions about basecoats and finally about clearcoats and buffing. I do, however, want to know which paints you folks prefer as I will probably be buying mine for O'Rielly AutoParts. They have many brands but I am leaning towards Cromax. Thoughts? And Istill have to find acompressor I can borrow or rent that will handle this job.
 

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SPI epoxy is the absolute best thing to use on fiberglass. I personally would never apply 2k primer to bare fiberglass. You can apply 2k over the epoxy within the recoat window. Use reduced epoxy as your sealer before basecoat.

There is a lot of good information in the SPI tech manual.
 
For your paint go to a real paint jobber. Not Oreilly's. You are in an area where there will be multiple jobbers. I would never use Oreilly's for paint. Dunderheads working there have no clue about refinish paint or the correct processes.

You have a lot of questions. I suggest you do some searching and reading here on the forum. Also go to the SPI website and download the Technical Manual. Read about the products and also other info in there like "The Perfect Paint Job". It will help give you and understanding of what products to use and what they are used for. I'll try to briefly answer some of your questions. If you are not using SPI products download the Technical Data Sheets (TDS) of the products you are using to get a detailed instructions on how to use them.

After sanding with 180 and before priming, blow off, then mask off first, then blow it off again, then use a quality W&G remover like SPI 700 to clean the surface. Use a dedicated paint prep wipe to apply/remove with. There is a sticky thread here with a lot of detail on how to use W&G remover correctly. You do not need to use anything finer than 180 prior to priming.

For bare fiberglass you want to use Epoxy primer. You can use polyester primer over fiberglass but never 2K urethane. It will not adhere correctly. FOr application and gun info follow the instructions of the products you are using. Some generalities, Epoxy 1.4 tip, 2K Urethane Primers, 1.6-2.0. Poly Primers 2.0-2.5 tip.

Like I said above for specific info like flash time, when to sand, application temps, etc you need to refer to the TDS of the product you are using. Or if using SPI products refer to the Technical Manual.

Concentrate on getting the primer on first, then we can proceed and help you further.
 
SPI epoxy is the absolute best thing to use on fiberglass. I personally would never apply 2k primer to bare fiberglass. You can apply 2k over the epoxy within the recoat window. Use reduced epoxy as your sealer before basecoat.

There is a lot of good information in the SPI tech manual.
Thanks
 
For your paint go to a real paint jobber. Not Oreilly's. You are in an area where there will be multiple jobbers. I would never use Oreilly's for paint. Dunderheads working there have no clue about refinish paint or the correct processes.

You have a lot of questions. I suggest you do some searching and reading here on the forum. Also go to the SPI website and download the Technical Manual. Read about the products and also other info in there like "The Perfect Paint Job". It will help give you and understanding of what products to use and what they are used for. I'll try to briefly answer some of your questions. If you are not using SPI products download the Technical Data Sheets (TDS) of the products you are using to get a detailed instructions on how to use them.

After sanding with 180 and before priming, blow off, then mask off first, then blow it off again, then use a quality W&G remover like SPI 700 to clean the surface. Use a dedicated paint prep wipe to apply/remove with. There is a sticky thread here with a lot of detail on how to use W&G remover correctly. You do not need to use anything finer than 180 prior to priming.

For bare fiberglass you want to use Epoxy primer. You can use polyester primer over fiberglass but never 2K urethane. It will not adhere correctly. FOr application and gun info follow the instructions of the products you are using. Some generalities, Epoxy 1.4 tip, 2K Urethane Primers, 1.6-2.0. Poly Primers 2.0-2.5 tip.

Like I said above for specific info like flash time, when to sand, application temps, etc you need to refer to the TDS of the product you are using. Or if using SPI products refer to the Technical Manual.

Concentrate on getting the primer on first, then we can proceed and help you further.
Yes, primer is next. I just wasn't sure which primer was best forthe RV.
 
You going to put the motorhome on a rotisserie or just use a scaffold?
I will use scaffolds. The height is 12'8" This is where I'm at today.
 

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Yes, primer is next. I just wasn't sure which primer was best forthe RV.
Epoxy on bare fiberglass. If you need a filler primer as well you can apply 2K urethane over epoxy after 48 hours. Like I said above be sure to read the TDS of the product you are using or if using SPI read the Technical Manual. You can find a TDS online by entering the product name/number and TDS. Example: PPG DPLF TDS
 
Epoxy on bare fiberglass. If you need a filler primer as well you can apply 2K urethane over epoxy after 48 hours. Like I said above be sure to read the TDS of the product you are using or if using SPI read the Technical Manual. You can find a TDS online by entering the product name/number and TDS. Example: PPG DPLF TDS
So since my panels are very flat is it likely that I don't need a filler primer? If so I assume I should use at least three coats of epoxy to cover 180 grit sctaches right?
 
So since my panels are very flat is it likely that I don't need a filler primer? If so I assume I should use at least three coats of epoxy to cover 180 grit sctaches right?
Don't know. You have to determine that. I was trying to emphasize that you need to use epoxy on any bare fiberglass.
 
The sanding pattern on the back of the vehicle indicates that there are waves of some sort, whether they are internal to the fiberglass or induced by sanding isn't clear. At any rate, to avoid sand-throughs on an imperfect surface, it's wise to have some primer build. Any sand-throughs to the original substrate, if painted over, can show up as rings in the finish.
 
Take a good look at that first pic....those panels are not straight and never will be. If it was me, I'd shoot 3 coats of epoxy(2 with a heavy hand) or 1 coat and a few coats of 2K.....not sure what you have on hand, but if you just have epoxy use that.

After that, buzz it down with 600 and paint it.

I personally hate giving advice anymore because you never know the results someone is going for, but that's just my $.02.....
 
Take a good look at that first pic....those panels are not straight and never will be. If it was me, I'd shoot 3 coats of epoxy(2 with a heavy hand) or 1 coat and a few coats of 2K.....not sure what you have on hand, but if you just have epoxy use that.

After that, buzz it down with 600 and paint it.

I personally hate giving advice anymore because you never know the results someone is going for, but that's just my $.02.....
There were long block sanded with guide coat and all guidecoat came off but thanks for the advice.
 
How did you sand the RV to get to this point? Did you use some kind of powered sander? Can you easily remove the ladder, it's going to make it very difficult to do a nice job.
 
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