Chevynutz
Slow old timer
I would use SPI epoxy and SPI universal clear and see if Chad can match the base coat colors, he is a member here. Top left of forum click website then shipping there is map of the states and shipping times. Good luck !
Newbie with questions
- Thread starter jzhinton
- Start date
Ok. Me personally I would shoot 3 coats of gray Spi epoxy, let it cure up for a few days then buzz it all down with 600, seal it with a coat of reduced epoxy and then move on to your colors.
I'm only saying epoxy because that will cut down on the supplies you need to buy.
Basecoats I would go with motobase if you can get the colors. Nason basecoats are terrible in my opinion..
I'm only saying epoxy because that will cut down on the supplies you need to buy.
Basecoats I would go with motobase if you can get the colors. Nason basecoats are terrible in my opinion..
Chris_Hamilton
Trying to be the best me, I can be
Especially if you are repainting the whole thing. Exact color match doesn't matter. Only needs to be close. Motobase is a really high quality base that will last. Cheap base like Nason and PPG Omni will actually fade under your still good clear. And you will use more to get coverage so in actuality you will spend more using cheap base.
Chris_Hamilton
Trying to be the best me, I can be
MJM
Promoted Users
Well that helps with night time temperatures at least for the rest of this month. College Station Texas average day and night temps in October are around 81/59.
As we are aware, SPI epoxy requires temps to be 65 degrees or higher for 24 hours after spraying to facilitate the start of the curing process.
MJM
Promoted Users
A gallon of SPI epoxy is a little over $200 dollars (epoxy and activator) A gallon of epoxy makes two gallons of sprayable epoxy. I would be buying two gallons of epoxy for the OP"s project if he plans on spraying three coats of epoxy, sand, then spray one coat of reduced epoxy as a sealer before base coat / clear coat.
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I agree with Don. My bro in law was a paint jobber for years. What you don't want to mix together are activators with a different brand. The chemicals that are in activators are formulated to work with that specific product.
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I agree with Chris on everything he says here. Occasionally I go to a friends place to spray big trucks , (semis) etc. He has a 30 gallon compressor and we use two filters and water is still an issue. Not a lot but we still have to drain them as we go along with the spraying process. It will definitely be a learning process but you can do this if you don't give up and do it the correct way.
MJM
Promoted Users
You're already, ready, since you blocked with 180.
Spray three coats of SPI gray epoxy waiting at least 45 minutes to 1 hour between coats. Let epoxy cure for at least 24 hours before blocking with 320, then 600 on a dual action sander (da) with an interface pad. Clean surface - wash/dry.....wipe surface down with SPI 710 wax & grease remover. Wait at least one hour or longer then.......
..........spray one coat of epoxy sealer and your ready for final paint. I would wait at least one hour up to 12 hours after spraying sealer before final paint, bc/cc.
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Lizer
Mad Scientist
Why are we doing any blocking here if this is a camper? Blocking is a pointless exercise for a camper IMO.
I painted an entire 28’ aluminum Argosy camper this year. It was two tone. Once the initial base was sanded, once I started spraying I never touched sand paper again.
I sprayed two coats unreduced epoxy. The next next I sprayed two coats single stage. Done.
This was all done outside as well.
For you paint, unless it’s metallic, I would forego BC/CC and just do a single stage. I’d recommend Automotive Art Motocryl. It’s a very good single stage and has very good coverage in just two coats. It’s easy to spray too.
You can get a sample of the paint on your camper scanned at a Napa. Get the Wanda formulation for it. Take that scan info and give it to Chad at Chad’s Paint Supply. He can mix Motocryl to match it. That’s exactly how I did it for the 1972 Argosy I painted for a guy.
You can get both the SPI epoxy and Motocryl single stage you need from there. Free shipping. They’ll be able to tell you everything you need.
Since you’re new I’d recommend staying away from BC/CC for such a large job. CC runs a lot easier than SS in my experience and if you go the route of BC/CC instead I can guarantee you’ll have some giant curtain sags and runs.
I painted an entire 28’ aluminum Argosy camper this year. It was two tone. Once the initial base was sanded, once I started spraying I never touched sand paper again.
I sprayed two coats unreduced epoxy. The next next I sprayed two coats single stage. Done.
This was all done outside as well.
For you paint, unless it’s metallic, I would forego BC/CC and just do a single stage. I’d recommend Automotive Art Motocryl. It’s a very good single stage and has very good coverage in just two coats. It’s easy to spray too.
You can get a sample of the paint on your camper scanned at a Napa. Get the Wanda formulation for it. Take that scan info and give it to Chad at Chad’s Paint Supply. He can mix Motocryl to match it. That’s exactly how I did it for the 1972 Argosy I painted for a guy.
You can get both the SPI epoxy and Motocryl single stage you need from there. Free shipping. They’ll be able to tell you everything you need.
Since you’re new I’d recommend staying away from BC/CC for such a large job. CC runs a lot easier than SS in my experience and if you go the route of BC/CC instead I can guarantee you’ll have some giant curtain sags and runs.
Attachments
MJM
Promoted Users
SPI Epoxy used for this application will be more than adequate. You'd be taking a chance using 2k high build primer with the motorhome being outside exposed to the elements. All it takes is one morning of dew in the air and the 2k will act like a sponge. With SPI epoxy you don't have to worry about moisture, water, or rain getting on it.
repsol17
New Member
Not to take away your thunder but all the questions you asked at autobody101 have been answered from start to finish. Like here, there's 5 ways to skin a cat. You need to figure out what end result you want and realistically can achieve with what equipment you have. You want Show, better than factory, factory or the best you can do.
Like one said earlier.. blocking a fiberglass RV.. why? There's more waves then the Atlantic Ocean, you'll spend a year+ blocking to a flat finish. Waste of time and energy.
At some point it becomes beating a dead horse.
Like one said earlier.. blocking a fiberglass RV.. why? There's more waves then the Atlantic Ocean, you'll spend a year+ blocking to a flat finish. Waste of time and energy.
At some point it becomes beating a dead horse.
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I wondered about this.
I will be outside too but will build PVC/sheet plastic enclosure for the rear end
All paints are metallics. I chose BC/CC since I'm not doing the whole RV. Want to get colors here in caseI done buy enough and need more ASAP.
When you did the two tone did you spray one color past the midline then mask and paint over the excess with the secong tone? What's thebest practice here?
No, you will lay out the 2-3 coats of unreduced epoxy, let it cure up for a few days then sand it with 600. Personally I would use a DA with an interface pad, then you will spray a coat of reduced epoxy let that flash off and then start with your basecoats. Once you spray the reduced coat of epoxy you are done sanding.