spi epoxy
- Thread starter shine
- Start date
B
Bob Hollinshead
I have a few test panels in the shop that are years old, why?
B
Bob Hollinshead
Completely stable, no changes after full cure. I have one that I even buffed as an experiment to a nice shine and it hasn't changed a bit.
B
Bob Hollinshead
I've put it through enough torture tests to know it's what I want.
Bottom line is epoxy is not a top coat paint, although the SPI has been used for that and we have a customer that uses it on trim pieces for the big three, that I was against but they did their own testing and it tested better then the trim paint they were using.
Epoxy of course is made for frames engine compartments as a top coat and of course these are areas that don't get UV.
Ecoat on frames have worked from the manufacturer for years.
Now for the UV, I do listen to the calls I get and will say, once in a while I will get one that says it started to chalk in 3-6 months setting outside, rare but it does happen but i also know of cars where its been used as a rot rod and lasted 5-7 years, we are still trying to figure out how much effect the UV additive is working as this is uncharted territory with the exception that one company makes a UV additive for epoxy that is used for off-shore oil wells. The breakdown of this UV shows its nothing more the one of the ones, we use in our clears and SS.
One reason we added the "must induce" for 30 minutes, is if it is real humid at time of spraying we do know that can increase the chances of it chalking earlier but if induced this seems to compensate.
Because we sell so much epoxy, it has been used for all kind of things that is was not designed for and the newest one, I just heard a few months ago, to fill the exhaust collectors and was told it worked great. If he would have asked, I would have said no way! Live and learn.
I should add, if used for a exposed top coat, mils is your friend, 3-4 coats can make a big difference over the standard 2 coats.
Epoxy of course is made for frames engine compartments as a top coat and of course these are areas that don't get UV.
Ecoat on frames have worked from the manufacturer for years.
Now for the UV, I do listen to the calls I get and will say, once in a while I will get one that says it started to chalk in 3-6 months setting outside, rare but it does happen but i also know of cars where its been used as a rot rod and lasted 5-7 years, we are still trying to figure out how much effect the UV additive is working as this is uncharted territory with the exception that one company makes a UV additive for epoxy that is used for off-shore oil wells. The breakdown of this UV shows its nothing more the one of the ones, we use in our clears and SS.
One reason we added the "must induce" for 30 minutes, is if it is real humid at time of spraying we do know that can increase the chances of it chalking earlier but if induced this seems to compensate.
Because we sell so much epoxy, it has been used for all kind of things that is was not designed for and the newest one, I just heard a few months ago, to fill the exhaust collectors and was told it worked great. If he would have asked, I would have said no way! Live and learn.
I should add, if used for a exposed top coat, mils is your friend, 3-4 coats can make a big difference over the standard 2 coats.
shine
Member
this all started by someone wanting to know if they could drive the summer in epoxy before getting to paint. i told him he would be ok if it was spi. but as usual it started a pissing match . i have yet to have any failure with this product nor have i heard of any from the people i turned on to it. if i do you will know since that is how we learn. the test panel i have was sanded with 80 , washed with water base and coated , 2 coats and left outside all summer and winter . i razor bladed some off and as you can see it is shiny clean metal and i can blade off any paint period with a sharp new blade .
B
Bob Hollinshead
Shine, you sprayed half the panel and left it outside right? Not much creep either-that's because of the epoxy's strength. Etch primer and urethane primer would have been a total disaster, same with softer epoxies like the non-sandable versions. Add in some road salt like we have in my area and major temp differences as low as -30F and it really weeds out the good from the bad.
Bob Heine
Oldtimer
Shine, you've said it before -- you just can't fix stupid. I think it's the Snap-On mentality -- if it isn't outrageously overpriced, it can't possibly be any good. Or the Bourbon and Coke crowd that only puts $160-a-bottle Jack Daniels Sinatra Select in their Bourbon and Coke.
Bob Heine
Oldtimer
Shine, you've said it before -- you just can't fix stupid. I think it's the Snap-On and Jack mentality -- if it isn't outrageously overpriced, it can't possibly be any good. A $75 screwdriver to tighten a screw and some $160 a bottle Jack Daniels Sinatra Select to mix with their Coke Zero is the only way to go.
Had an interesting call yesterday from Josh and I think the conversation (shortened a few hours) is worth mentioning as an education.
IN SHORT!
Epoxy, there are a 1000 ways to make an epoxy and every industry is unique.
Automotive refinish (Us) we think we have the best and our sales compared to the majors would perhaps support that theory.
Want the very best epoxy?? Epoxy made for off shore oil platforms; will it work on a car? No way, would not be worth a crap because what is put in it and what is left out. This is also true for the older bottom paints on ships.
Epoxy for cement floors, will the SPI work? Yes, is it the best for cement floors? NO. I have it on the floor of the wife’s garage but, it has it draw backs because we need more intermediates added to perform well under automotive paint and they don’t, so they have a slight edge in strength and they add an intermediate that prevents tire staining, if the tires are parked, when wet and hot. If we used that additive, you could cough on the paint and it would fall off.
How about epoxy that cures great at 25-40 degrees? Bet a lot of you would like that one! Sorry, it is made for an industrial application and could never be used on a car with any success at all.
Also a note on another subject, the thread he was referring to is the same one, Shine is referring to and the whole point to remember is products made for different industries are made that way for a purpose, hence the statement Urethane is best on raw metal, WRONG the guy making this statement is someone that has made a living putting his label on por 15 and selling it at flea markets in his own words for 35 years.
Moisture cured, is totally different chemistry then Iso cured, thank GOD!
IN SHORT!
Epoxy, there are a 1000 ways to make an epoxy and every industry is unique.
Automotive refinish (Us) we think we have the best and our sales compared to the majors would perhaps support that theory.
Want the very best epoxy?? Epoxy made for off shore oil platforms; will it work on a car? No way, would not be worth a crap because what is put in it and what is left out. This is also true for the older bottom paints on ships.
Epoxy for cement floors, will the SPI work? Yes, is it the best for cement floors? NO. I have it on the floor of the wife’s garage but, it has it draw backs because we need more intermediates added to perform well under automotive paint and they don’t, so they have a slight edge in strength and they add an intermediate that prevents tire staining, if the tires are parked, when wet and hot. If we used that additive, you could cough on the paint and it would fall off.
How about epoxy that cures great at 25-40 degrees? Bet a lot of you would like that one! Sorry, it is made for an industrial application and could never be used on a car with any success at all.
Also a note on another subject, the thread he was referring to is the same one, Shine is referring to and the whole point to remember is products made for different industries are made that way for a purpose, hence the statement Urethane is best on raw metal, WRONG the guy making this statement is someone that has made a living putting his label on por 15 and selling it at flea markets in his own words for 35 years.
Moisture cured, is totally different chemistry then Iso cured, thank GOD!
shine;35437 said:
Shine, people can say anything they want on these forums but when I get tech calls from people that refer to something they read and wondering if they can do that, I always say make sure you know WHO are are taking advice from, or pay no attention.
If you spend anytime on a forum, you can figure out real fast, who is professional and who is reading other posts and trying to act as experienced professional, the net result can mean an expensive redo.
kinda like that pat guy, got on there in 2009 restoring his 55 and guess, I said leave the bridge coatings to the bridges, now I see on another forum he is retoring his 55 again, I can't relate to restoring a car every 4 years, plus as much of an expert as he is, why have we not seen any pictures? OH, we did see the floor pan, where he said see what Ecoat can do and I responded, ecoat cannot do that but Por 15 can. (no answer)
Just grin and laugh at it Shine, I think I did post one time that if anyone is stupid enough to take his advice, they deserve what they get.
C
carolinacustoms
He is not worth the rise in blood pressure Shine. Let him paint his bridges and snow plows, I'll keep working work on cars. He has offered no proof of anything automotive related and has nothing to do other than act like a 5 year old (he pointed at me first type BS) I have simply learned to ignore him for the most part and have cut back on my posting in the forum all together. I don't claim to know very much, never have, but I do try to help those that I can when they post a question. It seems as if everytime someone asks anything about paint they get bombarded with either "prime it with my bridge paint" or "we sell our product cheaper than we can buy the toner" It is just like most small back yard, one bay shops that grow and turn into big businesses. Work flow increases, money flow increases and then soon the moral and quality have declined, the family is falling aprt from the stress, and then before long, if not operated properly, the whole place is belly up. I would like to personally and publicly thank you Shine for the recommendations you have offered to me. Because of you I am using SPI and Chemguys and life is much easier now due to both of those products.
Kelly
Kelly
C
carolinacustoms
Well, I appreciate the passing along of information then lol.