'68 Coronet R/T
Oldtimer
I painted the K-member and control arms for my 68 Dodge over 6 years ago. It has been inside the entire time but other than being a little dusty the epoxy is in perfect condition.
spi epoxy
- Thread starter shine
- Start date
1
1972GMC
Yeah, I've been planning my project for awhile now and gave up on all the other forums because I could never get a direct answer. It would always turn into a pissing match between users and someone always insulting me because I don't already know everything there is to know about everything. So far you guys on here have giving me simple direct answers that has help moved my project forward. And yes I wish I could epoxy my truck in 25 degree weather lol also por15 is extremely easy use and makes people feel good inside when they brush it on and its shiny but some people just have to learn the hard way. I can picture down the road seeing a nice shiny frame and being able to stick my finger through it cause the rust has eaten all metal inside, but the por will still look good lol. Don't worry about others time reveals everything in this industry.
shine
Member
if not for taking on raising my godson i would have retired this year . i still may retire from painting. i've been at this for a looong time . that craftsman gun in my dads garage seems like an eternity ago . i've always tried to help those who wanted to learn but i'm running out of steam it seems. anyway i guess i am still waiting for that failure .. 
B
Bob Hollinshead
crashtech;35442 said:
hotrodders.com, there is world of misinformation that gets posted in the body section there!
danp76
Oldtimer
Can only chromated epoxy pass the skydrol tests? Why can the aircraft industry use chromated epoxy, and most automotive paint manufacturers don't offer it? I'm aware of the epa/environmental concerns, etc. but if it works great on aircraft and can be used by them, wouldn't it be great on cars? Similar to the way we use poly clear on aircraft/cars because of its superior properties.
danp76;35451 said:
No not true the SPI exceeds the test in all areas or under the old tests years ago, it did.
One thing, I do want to point out, is since we were involved a lot of new coatings have been developed for the commercial planes due to epa and I'm not really up on it anymore.
In the old days Alodone was used and then epoxy in some situations, what little i have stayed up on this, I think that is gone now.
BASF and Sikkens have separate aviation departments and going head to head and everyone else seems to be setting back watching and living on past laurels.
shine
Member
when they start using henry's steel again cars will last . you can do everything right and still only get a few years out of job or it may last 20. i painted skips 55 ht with lac color and dupont clear in 1985 . car still looks good and is just now showing signs the lac is going south . but to me it is ridiculous for people to go around claiming 25 years this or that . none of us are that good . use the best you can find and hope for the best .
F
flynams
We must also remember that the vehicles we paint were only designed for a 10 year life...25 years out of a paint job is as good as it gets...and the birdcage probably did last 10 years on most every vette built
An epoxy test panel?
I use SPI products for mostly non-automotive applications.
I have a snow plow and a front end loader that I blasted and sprayed with epoxy during the summer of 2010. Both have been used a lot and are rarely stored inside. In the wear areas, the paint has worn off, but the epoxy is still there. The only place there is bare steel is on the cutting edge. I see the same thing on the pedals and floor boards of our tractors. The epoxy will eventually wear off, but it takes a lot.
I used SPI epoxy on a set of tractor rims in 2009. The rims are filled with calcium chloride (highly corrosive). There is still no sign of rust around the valve stems, which is where they always start to rust.
I used SPI epoxy on the underside of my 72" commercial grade mower deck last spring. After one season and many acres of mowing, there is not one spot of rust.
The biggest difference I can see between SPI epoxy and other products is that the damage stays localized. I have seen other products peel way back and / or rust from within.
I use SPI products for mostly non-automotive applications.
I have a snow plow and a front end loader that I blasted and sprayed with epoxy during the summer of 2010. Both have been used a lot and are rarely stored inside. In the wear areas, the paint has worn off, but the epoxy is still there. The only place there is bare steel is on the cutting edge. I see the same thing on the pedals and floor boards of our tractors. The epoxy will eventually wear off, but it takes a lot.
I used SPI epoxy on a set of tractor rims in 2009. The rims are filled with calcium chloride (highly corrosive). There is still no sign of rust around the valve stems, which is where they always start to rust.
I used SPI epoxy on the underside of my 72" commercial grade mower deck last spring. After one season and many acres of mowing, there is not one spot of rust.
The biggest difference I can see between SPI epoxy and other products is that the damage stays localized. I have seen other products peel way back and / or rust from within.
Raymond_B
Hobbyist
It's not just paint and body forums where this kind of stuff exists. Pick any subject and *almost* any forum and there's always the guy or guys who are the self proclaimed "experts" they cut and paste all kinds of drivel and the uninformed folks follow them. It's simply a by-product of so many people being connected.
Anyway I am a complete and total novice that you guys "saved" from the BS. I read this forum every day and learn so much, I stripped my car down to bare metal, Epoxied the parts that were salvageable and now getting close to a year later it sits while I work on other things. I was out looking at it Saturday, it's dusty and things have been leaned on it, dragged across it, cats have walked on it, I dropped a beer on the trunk (don't want to get in to how that happened, but I lost a good IPA that day) and it still looks the same as when I sprayed it.
I will say here, Corner-Carvers, and Mustang Steve's forums are where I know I can get solid real world info.
Long story short, the mantra I use for those "guys" on other forums. When you argue with a fool there's two fools arguing.
Anyway I am a complete and total novice that you guys "saved" from the BS. I read this forum every day and learn so much, I stripped my car down to bare metal, Epoxied the parts that were salvageable and now getting close to a year later it sits while I work on other things. I was out looking at it Saturday, it's dusty and things have been leaned on it, dragged across it, cats have walked on it, I dropped a beer on the trunk (don't want to get in to how that happened, but I lost a good IPA that day
) and it still looks the same as when I sprayed it.I will say here, Corner-Carvers, and Mustang Steve's forums are where I know I can get solid real world info.
Long story short, the mantra I use for those "guys" on other forums. When you argue with a fool there's two fools arguing.
B
bomccorkle
No doubt. If I hadn't found this forum and SPI products I'd be in piss poor shape currently. Everyone here is more than helpful and always gets you steered I. The right direction. One thing I also really like about here is that when I ask a question I get the answer and also the why as to the answer. I may be odd but I have a hard time following blindly. One thing I always noticed on the other forums is when you have a question and get an answer then question the answer the result you get is "because" ....
A
aggie jon
shine;35437 said:
Shine, whereabouts in Texas are you? I'm in Temple just east of I35 between Waco & Austin.
A
aggie jon
shine;35486 said:
Awesome. Nice country up there.
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shine;35486 said:
Awesome. Nice country up there.
Jim C
Oldtimer
if you ever want to accelerate the rusting process, you can make that metal panel go through about 5 years of sitting outside in the rain in about 30-60min and its easy as pie. grab a spray bottle, mix hydrogen peroxide 8:1 with vinegar and add a teaspoon or two of salt. pour it in the spray bottle, shake and spray it on the metal. watch what happens in about 1-2 min. NOTE: spi epoxy kills the effect lol.
here is something i did the other day. this is an old antique jointer from maybe the 30's. i blasted this so it was bright, clean cast iron not 5 min before these pics were taken.
here is a pic with the solution sprayed on after about 1 min
i let it set until it was dry then took it outside and hosed off any residue and let it dry again. this is how you see it here....or atleast almost dry
this is a console table for my living room btw. here it is with just a little oil on the base to stop the rust and darken everything up.
kinda funny all of us are always trying to stop rust. complete 180 here guys. a good way to give your test panel a jump start anyway.
here is something i did the other day. this is an old antique jointer from maybe the 30's. i blasted this so it was bright, clean cast iron not 5 min before these pics were taken.
here is a pic with the solution sprayed on after about 1 min
i let it set until it was dry then took it outside and hosed off any residue and let it dry again. this is how you see it here....or atleast almost dry
this is a console table for my living room btw. here it is with just a little oil on the base to stop the rust and darken everything up.
kinda funny all of us are always trying to stop rust. complete 180 here guys. a good way to give your test panel a jump start anyway.
