1972 C10

sprint_9

Rookie
Thank you. I need to get back to work on it, I have quite alot to finish up, as well as a couple things to change. It's been really nice having a break though.
 

Syclone3Mt

Promoted Users
Thank you. I need to get back to work on it, I have quite alot to finish up, as well as a couple things to change. It's been really nice having a break though.

I know what you mean. My truck used to be a long box also, did the LS swap as well and now Im fighting aligning new doors/hood/cowel/fenders.... and getting panel gap all sorted out before primer and paint. So much time these old trucks consume but the finished product sure puts a smile on your face. Keep up the great work.
 

MDPotter

Promoted Users
What's on your list to finish and change? It looks like a finished product to everyone, but we know there's always a punch list or things you want to change.
 

sprint_9

Rookie
I know what you mean. My truck used to be a long box also, did the LS swap as well and now Im fighting aligning new doors/hood/cowel/fenders.... and getting panel gap all sorted out before primer and paint. So much time these old trucks consume but the finished product sure puts a smile on your face. Keep up the great work.

Panel gaps can really be a lot of work, and even then it might be a compromise without an absolute ton of work. I know I have some I wasn't so happy with, but it looks alright when looking at the overall truck. Be sure to share a few pictures sometime.

What's on your list to finish and change? It looks like a finished product to everyone, but we know there's always a punch list or things you want to change.

Off the top of my head the running list is:

Cut and buff the outside of the box as well as both sides of the tailgate.
Polish with a black pad on the entire truck.
Install a different brake booster.
Install a radiator expansion tank.
Figure out the outside window sweep, the stock replacements don't work on my truck.
Try to get my power locks to work better.
Polish the stainless door panel trim, and Install the door panels and all associated handles/armrests.
Put power to my vintage air and see if the heat works
Charge the AC in the spring and see if my AC works
Try to hack my vintage air glove box insert to somewhat fit.
Install the glove box door
I may cut a vent into my speaker box to allow air to flow easier through the cab vent by the drivers door.
I might change the brake pads, mine seem to dust a lot.
Change the transmission, o_O.
A lot of tuning once the transmission is changed.

The big one on there, besides buffing, is the transmission. I kept getting an Input Speed Sensor code, and through some research I found out that around 05-06 they started phasing an ISS into the 4L60. I didn't know this so it was overlooked when the transmission was built. I tried my hardest to get the damn thing to be happy without the sensor and did with the one exception of it failing the torque converter after a few miles. I decided to throw in the towel and change it. One benefit to how it all worked out is that I now had the option to upgrade the torque converter and maybe get a little more performance. I wanted good drivability but wanted it to flash quicker and higher so Im going to try an 11 inch and see how that goes.
 
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MDPotter

Promoted Users
That is quite a list.

What do you have in mind for your booster and expansion tank? I'm running a stainless canister from Speedway and hydroboost and I'm happy with both.

Are you sticking withe the 4L60 or switching to a 65 or 80?
 

sprint_9

Rookie
For a booster I have a dual 9 inch diaphragm vacuum assist to switch to, right now I have a rebuilt factory single 11 inch. I just don't have enough assist so I'm hoping this solves that issue as I should have enough vacuum to make it work. If it doesn't then I may change the master cylinder. I wouldn't mind a hydro boost but probably wont switch to one as I don't want to deal with all it would take to convert to one.

My expansion tank is from Billet Specialties. I wanted a black one and they happened to have one that would fit where I planned to put it. It should fit on the passenger fender between the battery and fender.

I'm kind of hoping to work on both of these this weekend.

The transmission will be a 65, more or less the same as what I had with the ISS added. It has quite a few updates and upgrades.
 

Syclone3Mt

Promoted Users
After switching my cam to the Texas Speed .550/.550 lift cam, my brakes have no vacuum. Only have about 14" W.C of vacuum. Not sure if you have the same issue with your cam? Hydroboost would solve that but I think Im just going to install an electric vacuum pump for the brakes. Should work after that.
 

sprint_9

Rookie
I have about 16" at idle, which should be enough. I've thought about a vacuum pump too if things don't work out.
 

MDPotter

Promoted Users
How's progress on your list sprint? Any cool new pictures?

Sidenote - I installed my outer window sweeps (Precision) and had to move one of the clips to line up with the slot. But it's an aftermarket outer skin.
 

sprint_9

Rookie
How's progress on your list sprint? Any cool new pictures?

Sidenote - I installed my outer window sweeps (Precision) and had to move one of the clips to line up with the slot. But it's an aftermarket outer skin.

I scrounged up a few pictures. I haven't hardly done anything with my truck for the last month, I got kind of burnt out on it and really had a list of stuff piled up that I had put off for a long time. Its been really nice getting some of that done.

One of my projects, restored from top to bottom. Older than me and sound great, vintage audio has become a hobby of mine over the last couple years.

20200125_164248.jpg

Before my time off on the truck I worked on the brake booster and the coolant expansion tank. I think I made a decent improvement to my brakes. Before I changed the booster I damn near went through the front of the garage once, I dont feel like its something I would need to worry about anymore so it has improved. Hopefully under normal driving conditions I see a similar improvement, waiting on the weather to sign off on it but I have a good feeling about it. I still think I may change the pads.

My coolant tank installed without too much trouble and it ended up more or less in the position I wanted it to. I had it full and then got the truck up to temp, after it sat a bit it pulled it all into the radiator so it appears to be working as intended, just need to rinse and repeat until its full.

As of right now Im thinking break time will be over in February, I have some time off from work I need to use or lose and plan on using it to get going on buffing my box.


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sprint_9

Rookie
I used Precision window sweeps the first go around but wasn't happy with how they laid against the window. Not sure if my doors are spread apart or what the deal is.

Here is what the Precision ones looked like.

20190824_164726.jpg


These universal ones fit a lot better but they are just the sweep, no clips. Im not quite sure how I want to mount them yet. I thought about trying to use some kind of adhesive and bond them to the door, or trying to cannibalize the Precision sweeps for the clips and then some how press them into the sweep.

I also have some gaps Id like to fill by my vent windows, does anyone have any recommendations for that, or something to bond sweeps to the door? I thought about silicone, but is that recommended against paint? Maybe a thin bead of seam sealer, not sure how either would react to UV from the sunlight, although my truck is now garaged 95 percent of its life.

20191219_163125.jpg
 

texasking

Promoted Users
The only adhesive I can think of that might work would be windshield urethane, but it can be a mess, and if you ever needed to remove them it might be a problem. Have you thought of using some of the small screws that were used on some of the older vehicles? That might be another option.
 

Chris_Hamilton

Trying to be the best me, I can be
Staple,screws or pop rivets if you have access, if not something that you can come from underneath and sandwich the sweep and the metal together with.
Something like this
2603-4.jpg


Those are called bridge clips (google it) and aren't actually an automotive clip but are useful for situations like you have. I've used them in the past for various situations. Look through the clips here:
https://www.auveco.com/
They are the best source for all things clip related. I would definitely fasten it mechanically rather than try to use some form of adhesive. Sooner or later the adhesive will fail. Usually sooner.:)
 
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sprint_9

Rookie
You know now that you mention it screws were on my list at one point. I guess they kind of still are, the only hold up on them is they will be really hard to install with the window in. I really dont want to take the window out, my power window motors make it a massive pain to get them in and out.

Those U clips are a pretty good idea, I hadn't thought of coming in from the bottom like that. Ill have to look into those and see if I can get access through the door.

Thanks for the ideas.
 

texasking

Promoted Users
Ya, now that you mention access, that is not a strong suit on those trucks. Window would definitely need to be out for screws or rivets, and access from the bottom for clips like Chris suggested would be tough, also. I have an auveco dealer about 10 miles from my shop, and they have been a life saver many times, especially on the older moulding clips and std. size body bolts, nuts, and clips.
 
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sprint_9

Rookie
Darn, wish I would have found that brand a long time ago. They have some clips I was never able to find that I ended up having to change styles on. Im going to run through there catalog and see what pops up, just saw its 900 pages, might take a bit. :D
 

El Toro

Member
Sprint Just asking ..........can you remove the lower window bump or stop and lower the glass a little to get some screws or rivets in the sweep?
 
I guess I am somewhat confused as to how you found window seals with no clips?
Generally they have a small metal tongue that fits into the pre-cut slots. If too loose you can use a pair of pliers and squeeze them slightly before installation.
 
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